OutdoorKing Repair Forum Forums Repairs and Maintenance Questions on Walk Behind Lawn Mower Frames Two Stroke Lawn Mower Frames Fixing Up Victa Steel Chassis.

Norm it seems to look better every day. It honestly looks like a brand new base to the casual observer.

Now with the engine. I found no packing in the muffler so used up my last spare packing I had scavenged off another. Quietened it down a bit but still revs like a jet engine (not good) so will have to have a look at the manifold o rings next *sigh*.
Is it possible the air leak is occurring where it meets the block? I guess that's where the silicone comes in.

PS: found scoring on the piston and a couple of score lines on the bore when I checked through the exhaust portal. Damn! Rings looked ok.

MF,
which "O" rings are you talking about, inlet manifold? I have only replaced one where the carby clips on and probably 2 or 3 where the manifold fits to the barrel, most times if I have to pull it off I just give it a slight smear of silicone. This is not the cause of the high revs the high revs are because you can't control the poppet position

Hi Norm,
I was talking about the o rings for the inlet manifold that seals the carby on. This one is the straight type. Are they problematic. It may have a crack. How would I remedy the lack of popett control? Surely it must be an air leak letting it rev out, though it ticks over ok with the lever forward of the cold start position.

Haven't had a problem with the straight inlets but that doesn't mean you don't have a problem with it. I have no idea how you can control the poppet movement without modifying the cam, then you can control the revs, without doing that I can't help you

MF, I would suggest you get a little tachometer like this one https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Digital-Engine-Tach-Tachometer-Hour-Meter-Inductive-for-Motorcycle-Motor-SE/143310228155?epid=7020916288&hash=item215df48abb:g:~wEAAOSwHNxaCVIC .

If you get one like that, I suggest checking they mention a CR2450 battery not included - otherwise you have a sealed battery that isn't replaceable

The rusty corvette sounded like it was over revving, but tach measured it at 3500 rpm.

Hi Tyler,
no need for a tacho if you modify the carby you can control how high you want it to rev

Hi Tyler and Norm.
Trust me Tyler, if you heard it, you would know it's over revving badly. It made me frightened the blades would shoot off or the motor would blow up.
I can tell by the key of the engine note how high it should max out to.

Ok change the snorkel and use one with a shorter inner cable and this will prevent the cam being turned too far.

I know what you mean MF

At one point that corvette really hit high notes - and the kill wires convieniently stopped working at the same time (before carby mod) - had to rip the plug lead off

I agree with Norm - for some reason I have had less issues with the short air filter housing - now I know why

Tyler it isn't the length of the snorkel I'm talking about although the shorter ones seem to work better. I was talking about the inner cable with the ball on the end, some are quite a bit longer than the others and therefore the longer ones turn the cam further and therefore it allows the poppet to open further

I have another powertorque with the smaller cylindrical air cleaner body and it over revs slightly, but nothing like this!

They don't over rev if you modify the cam because it allows you to control the poppet opening, the grade on the original cams are too steep so the poppet goes to wot too quickly, pretty much all or nothing

Hi everybody,
I sorted the over revving. I took a look at the governing diaphragm and as soon as I popped off the diaphragm cap I could see the thin rubber on the edge wasn't sitting properly on one side and was sagging into the body instead. I started it up and no more over revving. Ready to be picked up by the buyer this week.

Gave the grey plastic cover a clean with degreaser and a rag, then a wipe with a clean wet cloth. Came up nice.

Looks very good MF, I blow back through the pipe lightly whilst I have the carby off - the slightest sign of air leak and the cap comes back off.

The newer diaphragms seem worse - probably due to where they are made. One I have had was so undersize the sides wouldn't seal at all

Good morning Mowerfreak,

Just wondering what paint stripper you have had success with, I tried stripping the paint from a PT base and the paint stripper wouldn’t even look at it, it was Diggers brand in a green tin. I am sure I used same brand but it was a yellow tin and it worked well.

This green tin must be some eco friendly crap that of course barely does anything.

Any recommendations?

👍😀🎄

Hi MF,

What's with the Scotty in the photo ?

Cheers,
BB.

Hi B_B, Paul_c and Tyler,
paul_c I didn't use stripper when prepping the surface of this frame. I just rubbed it down and treated the rust before using the paint.
I have a small can of stripper but cannot find it and can't remember the brand. It was a well known trademark, that's all I know. I used it only once on a small area and it worked quickly. It was a clear gel like substance.
B_B I have two Scott Bonner 45s I found ages ago. They are the ones I told you about. They are pretty decrepit but have their Kirby Tecumseh engines. One leaked oil like a sieve and I don't know if they run or not.
I have the catchers but one is too far gone but the other is much better.

Here's another I just repainted. It was a chassis I found dumped without a motor. It was one of those dark green Lawnkeeper by Victa that normally have a flathead Briggs or V40 chonda . I am building it as a cheapie for a neighbour and am fitting a two stroke.


I hope it stands up to petrol.

Mower completed. Looks good but loud rowdy engine despite stuffing stainless steel scourer pad in exhaust.
Groaning bearing sound is detectable but neighbour only has a small area to do so we'll see how this little bomb goes.