OutdoorKing Repair Forum Forums Repairs and Maintenance Questions on Edgers Two Stroke Edgers Victa Tilta-A-Cut not running continuously

Hi POI,

Did it still do the run when pumping the primer?
Is the poppet opening when you move the throttle lever up and down. It doesn't move that much but you should be able to see it open a couple of mm.
You said in your first post that if you take the float and needle out it runs at high revs. The fact that it runs like that amazes me but this proves the main jet is clear, the crank seals are fine and you have ignition. This only leaves the carby and I do get the odd carby body that gives me issues but I just move onto another body. The next step I will suggest is to do my carby mod to it and unless there is an issue with the carby body it will work. I will dig up the carby mod details once you get through the initial tests. The carby mod is designed to allow the motor to come back to an idle speed because these carbys were renowned for over revving or high revving. Of the several hundred of these I have done I have probably left 5 carbys unmodified apart from the viton tipped float needle which I fit everytime first thing before testing.

Not a vaccum issue because you stated in your first post it would run flat out with the needle and float removed. It is a carby issue so it might be an idea to read through this on my carby modifications
https://www.outdoorking-forum.com.au/forum/u...arby-repair-modifications.html#Post82288

Alright I'll check the poppet valve tomorrow.
Does it matter what the poppet valve is set to right now?
I just have it on C

C seems to work fine

POI, I have info that says C is the correct position.

Alrighty so my parts came today.
So today I replaced the carby cap because I accidentally broke the male port off of it completely.
I also replaced both manifold o-rings and both vacuum hoses due to being hard.
The diaphragm also got replaced as well as the ignition boots.

I also checked the poppet valve like you suggested Norm and it does go in and out.

I am reluctant to do your carby mod to norm. I feel like I can get it running with out doing your mod. It is becoming very frustrating though

OK good luck with it then

Do you have any more suggestions norm?

No I don't, as it was a runner then mechanically it is sound so the only thing that prevents it from running is the carby. Is it firing now but won't keep running. Very hard to tell without having it in my hands

POI,
The only thing I can ad is that after modifying the carbys they seem to work fine, that is why I do them that way, it is a lot of work and I wouldn't modify them if I had found an easier/better way

Hey Norm,

I do totally trust your method.

I am just not ready to try your method yet till I exhaust all other options.

I also feel that it would be my luck I would mod the carby and I would still have the same issue

Float needle is critical, some stick in the seat, some I have had to shorten so that they can drop enough to allow fuel to flow. One major reason for modifying the carby is you will probably find it very difficult to get the kill switch to work , very bad bit of design work

Im fine with the kill switch not working. Ill just pull the spark plug lead off.

I just want this bad boy running

I assume the main jet strainer is clear, I haven't mentioned that before because you said it ran flat out with the needle and float removed, this indicates it is clear

Yeah I have blown that out several times. I can blow air through it in reverse quite easily.

I am thinking I might replace my float since that is still old

Old float is not the problem as long as it is not hitting the tower ( I guess it isn't because then it will flood out the primer cap). You then have to check that the float does not hit the floor of the body before it allows fuel to flow. It all depends on how high or low the seat has been fitted in the primer cap, the can vary slightly. If the float is ok in both directions no need to replace it.

POI,
The only other reason it won't run is there may be something wrong with the carby body. Rare but not impossible, of the hundreds I have modified I have had 5 or 6 that for some reason just would not work so the percentage is low but there is always that chance. I have boxes of parts G4/LM and I just grab whatever I need, doesn't matter what they are. I do have to fit an idle stop screw in the G4 cam to prevent them travelling too far and allowing the cable to let go.

Turns out there was a very fine crack in the carby body where you screw in the main jet.
I had a friend give me an entire carby body and she runs now.
I had a couple hiccups with not running for more than a minute or two but I have had that sorted now.

Massive thanks to you guys for all the support and patience you have given me along the way

Well there you go. How did you detect it?
Just goes to show that even a spare shell or two is worth holding on to.

I just went back over the parts again looking for something and noticed the crack