There are two separate issues here: dealing with damage to the bore, and dealing with normal glazing of a well-used bore.
So far as the damage is concerned, the main problem is that it bypasses the piston rings, providing leakage paths for hot gas moving at supersonic speeds and carrying chunks of burning carbon with it. This is a recipe for eroding your new rings immediately, and ruining them in probably well under an hour's running. You need to completely eliminate vertical marks in the cylinder bore, by honing it properly. Proper honing does not make circumferential marks either. I suggest you look at these threads:
https://www.outdoorking-forum.com.au/forum/u...=5705&Words=honing&Search=true#Post23859https://www.outdoorking-forum.com.au/forum/u...in=6860&Words=hone&Search=true#Post34409The el cheapo hones you can buy for a few bucks are pretty much useless, they are better at scratching bores than at polishing out score marks. You might be able to get some help from a garage or mower shop with the right equipment. Remember, your repair can only work if you completely remove the longitudinal scores, but if you increase the bore diameter more than say two or three thousandths of an inch, it will be oversize which will result in a loose piston and an excessive piston ring gap. A loose piston in a port-controlled 2 stroke will result in poor performance.
On the subject of removing glaze from the bore, this is a controversial subject. Glazed bores can, under some circumstances, cause new rings to fail to bed in and seal against the cylinder, which results in after-overhaul blow-by that just gets worse with time. However most attempts to break the glaze in a bore do more harm than good. If I recall correctly Briggs and Stratton recommend that the glaze in aluminium bores should not be disturbed. From what I've been able to find, Honda makes no mention of removing glaze in their small engine workshop manuals or their Common Service Manual. Note that Honda small engines have steel cylinder liners, not cast iron. I do not normally break the glaze in engines I overhaul unless they are diesels. In the case of diesels, running the engines for long periods without load causes severe bore glazing, followed by blow-by and ring erosion. If the diesel engine has glazed bores prior to overhaul, glaze-breaking is essential. If it does not have glazed bores, I would probably not perform a glaze-breaking operation.
