OutdoorKing Repair Forum Forums Active Threads

You are right there Max, all the stuff I have here will probably go to scrap, just not worth the effort

Yes Bumps that bearing must fit the 125 cc and earlier 160 cc Victa, if yours is the later crank I would just use a second hand crank
that's has a good big end or swap a PT alloy rod and bearing. I wouldn't even get $40. these day for a serviced Victa PT mower.

I've seen Victa 2 strokes advertised for 2 years for $60. and they still can't sell them.

Been a while since I have needed to source bearings for obsolete machinery but suggest you take whatever bits you have to a bearings supply joint, and if they don't seem interested try another place.

One thing I discovered decades ago is that most bearing manufacturers may only make so-called sealed bearings and the part number may differ from the unsealed original but you can just get a sharp knife or pick and remove the seal/s.

Plenty of motors here if you want to grab a crank out of one

Dear Max thx for your rapid reply but I cannot possibly see how the proposed bearing (HK1616F) would fit my application?
1. Bearing OD from your literature is quoted at 22 mm whilst the bore size on my con-rod is 27.61 mm - see attached photo
IE. Bearing OD is 4.4 mm undersize.
Q: Are you implying that I need to machine a sleeve and fit it to the con-rod big end bore to take up the gap?
2. Additionally, bearing diameter under the rollers from your literature is quoted at 16 mm whilst my crankpin diameter is 19.63 mm - see attached photo.
IE. Bearing is 3.6 mm undersize so the crank pin cant slide under the rollers.
Unless I'm missing something, I see cannot how the HK 1616F bearing would work in the big end application.
Any other ideas would be appreciated.

CHEERS+BEERS
- Bumps

Hi Bumps ,

You can use HK1616F - NTN or just get an old power torque motor and use the power torque alloy conrod and big end bearing.

https://outdoorking-forum.com.au/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/119997/victa-full-crank-engines.html

I did see one in Aus for $11. but was just one of the first ones I looked at. https://au.rs-online.com/web/p/roller-bearings/0454749

Try your local bearing shop or just google online sales for HK1616F - NTN

Cheers
Max.

Can anyone suggest a supplier for a new big end bearing for VC 160 2-stroke late 1970's?
The size data is shown on the accompanying photos.
I've looked everywhere but the only bearing that I can find is a fully encapsulated roller bearing which seems quite different to the separate roller system that I found once I slit the crank shaft.

KIND REGARDS TO ALL
- Bumps

Radial shaft seals and wheel dust seals are often easier to source through an tbs industrial bearings and seals supplier than through mower dealers, especially for older Rover, MTD, and Victa models where the original parts were bundled with complete wheel assemblies. If you can measure the axle size, outer diameter, and thickness accurately, most Railway bearing shops can usually match a generic seal that fits properly without needing to modify or grind it down.

Yes, those are generally called radial shaft seals or sometimes wheel dust seals, and most bearing supply shops can usually match them if you bring the old one in and measure the ID, OD, and width accurately with calipers. A lot of mower manufacturers never sold them separately because they were considered part of the wheel assembly, which is why they can be frustrating to source individually. Since the Victa and Rover/MTD versions differ slightly in OD and thickness, your best bet may actually be an industrial seal supplier rather than mower parts dealers, because they can often cross-match generic seals that fit the axle and bearings correctly without needing to grind them down.

Thx Norm, appreciate the warm reply.
Guess I should have waited for a reply from Forum members before rushing to make the purchase.
... Patience is a virtue, pit I'm short on it.

CHEERS + BEERS
- gr

I would have given you one for free, all of mine will probably end up going to scrap

Thx for the return post Norm but I managed to source one from High Wycombe Lawnmower Repairs.
I paid $ 45.00 for it (excluding postage) so probably a bit on the expensive side but at least I got it and it was in good condition.

avagood1
- gr

Thanks Bruce and Max, I will work my way through it and see how I get on with it

G'day Mr Beefy,

As far as I know back then the engineers at the factory, they just built two machines:

The front-engine model (The Tractor)

The rear-engine model (The Mini / Mini-Mow)

The "Javelin" was just a name they slapped on.

This manual I think covers most of your model https://outdoorking-forum.com.au/fo...mber/624/filename/MiniTractor5and8HP.pdf

Hi Norm and Bruce,

Yes do all the easy checks first like Bruce mentioned before dismantling the carby.

I've had a few like this , just to save time I always disconnect the intake fuel line from the carby and put a spare fuel line on with primer and dip the end of the fuel line in a cup of fuel with no fuel filter , then run the snipper for a few minutes as sometimes the extra flow fixes the problem and also tells you
if the filter is gummed up or carby gummed up.

Even though you put a new filter on it around Christmas, a few things could have happened to it since then:

Microscopic Fuel Flakes: If the old fuel sat in the tank and started to break down, it can create a fine, almost invisible gel or powdery scale. When you put fresh fuel in, it may have washed all those loosened contaminants straight into your new filter, instantly plugging it up.

Another problem I always see is people leaving the fuel tank or petrol tin on cold concrete which attracts moisture.

Water Contamination: If water got into the tank, some fuel filters (especially high-quality felt or paper ones) will absorb the water, swell up, and completely block fuel from passing through, even though they look spotless to the eye.

As we know it's still priming but can be restricted flow.

Another thing I've done before is remove the 2 lines from the carby and blow some compressed air down them , but the air gun I use is a lot bigger than the small fuel line connectors so it's not getting a full pressure blow out.It can just loosen sticky valves or partial blocked jet etc.

If it still won't run during the cup test:

That confirms the blockage is inside the carburetor itself. Since it primes, we know the primer pump is pulling fuel through the carb, but the engine can't draw fuel out of the carb on its own.

If the cup test fails, check these two specific things inside the carby:

The Main Jet is Blocked: The primer circuit bypasses the main jet to fill the bulb. If the main jet is blocked by varnish, the primer will feel perfect, but the engine's intake vacuum can't suck any fuel when it's cranking.

When you pump the primer, you are manually pulling fuel around the engine's main feeding zone just to prime the pump chamber and fill the bulb. Once the engine starts, it stops using the primer circuit entirely. Instead, the engine’s internal vacuum has to suck fuel through the metering needle and the main jet.

If that main jet or the internal nozzle is blocked by a tiny bit of varnish, the primer will feel absolutely perfect, but the engine will starve the second it tries to run on its own (which is why it only fires when you force-feed it starter fluid).

When someone bring a snipper back a few months later with carby trouble we know it generally shouldn't be too bad as it had a new
carby last time.

Most times the cup trick and air gun blowing some fuel and air through usually clears a carby that's not that old.

I do the easy tests first and sometimes check the mixture screw in the middle of the black plastic throttle link and if that doesn't
work you will need to dismantle the carby ,sometimes there is a little mesh screen in the carby that can also block up with old fuel
that will need cleaning out.

The needle
The Quick Fix: Gently turn it all the way in until it bottoms out (don't force it, or you'll snap the needle tip), then back it out about 1.5 to 2 full turns. That is usually the factory baseline. If it suddenly starts from there, you know it was just out of adjustment.

The Little mesh screen
it sits right at the entrance of the carburetor's fuel room, it acts like a bouncer. When old fuel sits, it turns into a gummy film right on that screen, acting like plastic wrap. Fuel can still pass through when you force it with the primer bulb, but the engine's weak natural vacuum can't suck fuel through it.


Make sure jets are clean as you have done these a million times by now. Just summarizing what you already know.

One last thing I forgot to mention, I always try another primer before a tear down.

Even though a primer bulb looks and feels like it’s working when you pump it with your thumb, it can absolutely fail to hold pressure or vacuum when the engine is running.

Here is exactly why that happens:
The Secret Check Valve inside the Primer

Inside or directly beneath that little plastic primer base, there is a tiny, delicate rubber check valve (often a little duckbill valve or a tiny orange rubber umbrella).

When you pump it: Your thumb creates a massive, forceful suction that manually forces the valve open to pull fuel up.

When the engine runs: The engine relies on a tiny, microscopic vacuum pulse to draw fuel. If that little rubber check valve has softened, warped, or gotten sticky from ethanol, it won't seal properly.

The Result: Instead of pulling fuel from the main jet, the engine sucks air backward through the primer return line, leaning the engine out instantly. It will only fire on starter fluid because it's starving for fuel the second it cranks.


So the fuel line in a cup of fuel trick I will use a good known fuel primer on that line. You probably also have had a lot of primers only
half work too.

Cheers
Max.

Hi NormK,

Have a very close look at the insulater block between the carby and the cylinder block as it could be cracked.

Hey everyone.

So I picked one up the other day. It starts, drives and cuts with no issues. Everything seems original however I am not having much luck finding any information about it. Can someone shed some light on this.

A bloke dropped of his Honda GX25 brush cutter because it won't start. Around Christmas I fitted a new carby to it and it worked fine.When I changed the carby I also put new fuel lines and filter on it. It primes fine. Now the only way I can get it to fire up for a second is with starter fluid and wide open throttle. It is obviously a carby issue, just not sure what to look for, anybody have any ideas?

Here is a 24 hour link for the manual.

https://wormhole.app/JWWz2B#jGrnNsp1KQnrYzA-OabFPQ

I ended up getting a cheap aluminium gearshift lever to replace the height adjustment stick. It looks great and is a lot stronger than the old plastic one. I will have to give Temu a go!

So a lot of this has been trial and error, and I ended up having to 3D Print these to test for a good fit. As a result I have had to make some more alterations. I have also added filleting to round off the edges for a better fit.

To avoid further confusion and to allow for updates, I have put them all in a folder on Google Drive. The ones labelled Modern Rover do seem to be correct for the wider chassis, while the Rover Classic are for the wheels on the older 18" chassis. I made a separate one for Easyroll wheels, which produces a longer seal to provide a more secure fit on the modern plastic wheels.

When I find some time I will do a file for the Victa wheel seals too, seeing they are also now obsolete. The ones they are selling as "wheel spacers" on eBay are not the same thing.

Please ignore all earlier postings of code and only use the files in this Google Drive folder below:

https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1xgqqzzKivddJ7MWvR3MRjXc5D0uaEBc9?usp=sharing

So I discovered a few design flaws in the modern Rover template, here corrected. I discovered there was not enough room to snugly fit the bearing inside the washer. I would suggest using the Classic Rover for ALL Rover models, old and newer, using the template provided in my previous post labelled "Classic". The one labelled "Modern" has been scrapped. I am renaming the Modern Rover template "Easyroll", because they are really only a good fit for the Easyroll wheels sold at Bunnings with the 1/2" ball bearing centres. They will also suit some of the newer 1/2" axle plastic wheels being sold on places like eBay.

Here is the corrected template for the Easyroll wheels.

China does seem to be getting better at manufacturing quality parts and machines. I suspect that might be why the prices keep going up. Before long it will no longer by economical to get things made there and as a result some manufacturing will return to Australia. I suspect we might be already seeing this trend with the return of Victa?

Here in quotes below are the text files for the two most common Rover wheel bearings. Just match up the right one with those on your machine. Generally speaking, the Classic ones fit the old 18" aluminium chassis models from the red era. The Modern ones fit the later steel chassis models and 19"-20" models. The modern ones also fit many modern wheels, such as the Easyroll wheels they sell in Bunnings.

Just cut and paste ONE of these lines of code directly into OpenSCAD (free software). After the image loads up in the viewing frame, click on "Design", select "Render". When it has finished rendering, click "File", select "Export" and save as an STL file.

All 3D printing places will accept these STL files. Get them printed in ABS or PETG.

Enjoy!

Yes I've got a lot of parts from Aliexpress and haven't had a problem Norm and Vm.

A Phone cable that costs $15 at a local shop is likely $2 on AliExpress.

It is often the exact same item, from the same factory, just without the 650 % markup an Australian reseller adds to cover their rent and profit. Why pay a "convenience fee" to a middleman if you aren't in a rush?