OutdoorKing Repair Forum Forums Active Threads

I have a few Briggs, Honda, Robin Generic NEW Spare parts available and if you are interested make me an offer (prefer to sell as a batch lot if possible).

Other Brands will be listed soon.

I have a few Atom NEW Spare parts available and if you are interested make me an offer (prefer to sell as a batch lot if possible).

Other Brands will be listed soon.

List of parts are below.

Hi All,

I have a few Ryobi NEW Spare parts available and if you are interested make me an offer (prefer to sell as a batch lot if possible).

Other Brands will be listed soon.

List of parts are below.

G'day newtorestoration,

...and a big welcome to ODK!

Please ask as many questions you like regarding this, then I'm sure we can progress from there...

Cheers & kind regards,

mice_elf

Hi, Just recently got one of these same
motors and am at the start of the restoration process. Have a few questions for
anyone willing to help!

Read this post and it should help you.

https://www.outdoorking-forum.com.a...ta-imperial-clutch-sprocket-removal.html

It’s the top sprocket connected to the centrugal clutch

Hi all

For the life of me, can’t get this too sprocket off my imperial. Unsure how to lock the clutch wheel or get enough bite to lock it so I can then loosen the sprocket.

Also unsure which way it loosens so I could be tightening it for all I know but did try both ways.

Tried a few ways with grips, holding it while someone tries to loosen the sprocket.

Anyone got tips?




Thanks

Excellent reply Max and totally understood.
I did drill 8- 1/8 inch holes in the shim face for bearing lubrication purposes.
I'll move the shim as suggested.
I guess Mr Victa never imagined in his wildest dreams that we would still be using his engines 50 (+) -years down the track so shaft facial wear was resulting and float was never envisaged so was never added to the repair manual.
Again, brilliant reply mate! - It perfectly addressed my issue,

- Bumps

Hi Maurice,

They look like the Hercules mower wheels with the 6 inner gussets to reinforce the wheel.



https://www.outdoorking-forum.com.a...808/austral-villiers-hercules-c1959.html


Cheers
Max.

Hi Bumps,

Just a warning about the shim , it should be on the pto end of the crank and not the flywheel end.

You shim the PTO (blade) end instead of the flywheel end because on a vertical shaft 2 stroke.

The major thrust loads and wear happen at the PTO end
The flywheel end is relatively stable and lightly loaded axially
Shimming the PTO side keeps the crank positioned correctly under real working load

When spinning, the blade creates:
Downward axial load (from gravity + airflow lift effects)
Up/down thrust from cutting impacts
Gyroscopic and vibration forces

All of that pushes and pulls on the crankshaft at the PTO end, not the flywheel end.

Over time, this causes wear on the lower crank face and bush/bearing surface.

When you shim the PTO end:

You take up the slack right where the wear occurred
You re-center the crankshaft in its natural running position
You maintain correct:
Bearing/bush alignment
Oil film clearance
Crank stability under load

A lot of the motors I have, have so much end float the flywheel starts to rub on the coil plate , see image below.

So it always pays to lift the crank back up a bit to compensate for wear.

Make sure the round shim is a fair bit smaller than the bearing.



So why still not full size?

Even though it’s a ball bearing, lubrication still matters because:

The inner race isn’t sealed against the crank
Oil/fuel mix still needs to:
Get between shim, crank, and bearing surfaces
Prevent fretting and galling at contact points

If you used a full-size shim that completely matched the bearing face:

You could trap oil out of that interface
Create dry rubbing surface between bearing and shim
Increase heat and wear on:
Crank face
Shim
Bearing inner race side


You want the shim:

Slightly larger than the crank shoulder, but smaller than the bearing inner race

Inner diameter (ID):
Close fit on the crank (not sloppy, not tight)
Outer diameter (OD):
~1–2 mm larger than the crank shoulder
Still clearly smaller than the bearing inner race

I had a damaged crank the other day, flywheel side , worst one I've seen on a victa that's still together in one piece, they
must have run the motor with a loose flywheel.


Cheers
Max.

G'day Max,
thank you for your help, I will contact people on the list you gave me and see what happens. cheers Mike

AVB thank you very much!

If you need all those parts then just order item 16 PN 20071747.

https://www.outdoorking.com.au/bran...-genuine-cap-assy-fuel-tank-ttm-20071747

James,

Regarding my links in my previous post, is it not possible to print them out & take them into your local Morrison [or your normal mower shop], and get them to order the parts [1-9] you need, for you?

This is only a suggestion, as that's what I would do, as on eBay AU e.g., I can't find any items to match.

Maybe Max, Bruce, or Norm, when they come on line can offer alternative suggestions.

mice_elf

Hey,

would have been easier if I had of included that, apologies. I am needing parts 1-9 which make up the fuel cap.

Hope this is of help.

Cheers.

G'day again James,

I'm not sure if this is exactly what you are after, but If you look -> HERE, you can download the Owner's Manual, if you don't already have one, as it appears to have many parts listed, from what I can see.

Here is the exploded parts manual for your ride on Masport TTM98 Ride on mower -> CLICK HERE

Hope this is of some assistance to you...

Cheers,

mice_elf

Hey mice_elf, appreciate the welcome!

I am looking for a replacement fuel cap for my Masport TTM98 Ride on mower. Loaned it to a mate and he somehow lost the fuel cap.

Thanks!

G'day James Maunder, and Welcome here to ODK.

Can you give us more info., on what exactly the part your looking for is?

E.G. Is it off a mower, ride-on, line trimmer etc., and we can work from there...

Regards,

mice_elf

Hello, I have been attempting to send a enquiry on the parts website but just keep getting the error "WARNING: An Error occurred, please let us know!". I could not find any other way to contact other then this forum so thought I would try my luck here. Cheers!

Hi Bumps,

I suggest that you check your crankshaft alignment because if it is out more that two thow you will have issues.

We used to split the crankshaft and replace the conrod bearing and pin and then realign the crankshaft so that it was only out less than one thow out.

I worked out that if I put a 0.8 mm thick shim (washer) between the Crankshaft and the bearing on the NDE (Magneto end) and pulled up all the crankcase bolts then the end float was eliminated. I used a set of feeler gauges between the crankcase halves to determine the shim thickness. All good now. I guess Victa's manufacturing tolerances were to blame but its a pit the subject wasn't covered in their repair manual that Bruce kindly sent me. If i seize the bottom end on start then I'll repost.
P.S: The end float variation between TDC and BDC may have been due to me not having the crank case bolts not fully torqued.

Agree with you. Been trying to fathom why your motor has no crank float at TDC yet has a couple of mm at BDC.

Thinking maybe the conrod is bent so the axis of the big end isn't parallel with the little end axis but that doesn't explain it. Or the flywheel edge is kissing the crankcase at TDC but there's nothing to kiss against at BDC. Or ???

THx Bruce, I've taken a careful look at the manual but cannot find any reference to permissible crankshaft end float tollences or any instruction on how to adjust the end float. As mentioned in my original post, I reckon I have end float of 1.5 to 2.0 mm, sufficient to make a distinct clunking noise as I hand force the crankshaft in and out of the crank case....... Just doesn't seem right?

A friend had some fuelproof 2 pack tank sealant and I put some over the leaking spot weld internally, let it cure a couple of days and the tank still leaked so realised it must be coming from some of the other dozen spotwelds.

Put a coat covering all the welds and now all is good.

Although the pump is only 3 years old a spare tank was not available which seems poor form - Bianco BIA-WP15A - but now that I found several of the welds had leaked it was probably a good thing they don't supply spares as a new one may have developed leaks down the track.