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If all else fails bring it to my place and I can fit a later cup starter setup on it seeing you are in Melb

Hi FiM

Not completely sure what motor you have without seeing it but sounds like the one with those older Briggs recoil setups, that the clutch pawl or ratchet sprocket acts up, works just like a bicycle freehub—if the little dogs or springs get gummed up, worn, or fail to disengage, the spinning flywheel catches the starter and forces the cord back out at a million miles an hour, generating enough friction to melt the plastic housing and fry the ratchet.

You can buy a new inner starter part that threads onto the crank, if you can find one, but usually these have small steel balls inside to
engage ,if its not too stuffed I usually open the seal up enough with a feeler gauge on the ratchet part and spray WD40 into it , you aren't
meant to as this makes it slip but if you spray it then leave it a day its usually dries enough to work but is lubricated enough to stop the squealing
and ripping the rope starter apart.

I usually find if I replace them with another second hand one it does the same thing until you use WD40 in it.

Cheers
Max.

Hi Olqualcast

Its a D61 Turner mower they just put a Qualcast badge on it for a different manufacturer.

https://www.outdoorking-forum.com.a...turner-the-lawnmower-range-for-1961.html

It’s badge-engineered, exactly like how a mid-eighties Ford Laser is actually a Mazda 323 underneath. Turner and Qualcast were different brands, but they shared the exact same chassis and design—Turner built the mower for Qualcast just slapped their badge on the front of the same machine.

Sometimes other shops would sell them with no cast badge on the front.

Cheers
Max.

Hey I resently got an old rotary hoe with a briggs and stratton 5hp it had a few problem but iv got new carbi new exhaust new head gasket seal new electric starter motor but it starts and then sckwheels loudly and melted plastic pull cord assemble and pushed all the cord back out and the ratchet washer melted off so I replaced both started it again and same thing what going on please any help would be super appreciated

Digging through a barn at my grandparents farm in Western Australia came across this mower, have not found a single example or picture of another one anywhere, has sparked an interest in vintage mowers now, please some info or photos of one would be great I would like to restore it to its original state.
Deck looks to be hammer tone gold originally, thanks in advance

Hi Tony1985 and Sapper,
Couldn't be said better exactly as it is and very little can now be done about it. The future for this country looks bleak I am afraid

The major difference between when we made things, and not; tariffs.

Australia, like all western countries that made things, used to have huge import tariffs.

As soon as these were gone, most industry went overseas chasing the profit. A lot of manufacturing countries, even though they pay less, still have large tariffs. This was shown in Thailand when we exported a few Ford Territory's there, and the Thai government chucked a big tariff on them. There are no tariffs for all the diesel utes they ship here of course...

If you go back in time, you couldn't get a "cheap" mower any more than you could get a cheap TV. These were major purchases, most of which were made here by people on decent wages. Would people be happy losing all their cheap products in order to get manufacturing back? I strongly doubt it.

It would probably take a shock similar to what caused our leaders to begin our industrialisation after WW2; almost getting invaded by a foreign power and finding at the time that we made bugger all, being a resource bucket for Britain and importing everything from there, and relying on our allies for weapons, etc.

Hi mower1, Tuchcut Turftrack ? ALROH

Can't say I know much about them as I think they are Extremely Regional and Niche

Alroh a Western Australian company based in Perth. Unlike massive international brands like Rover, Victa, or Toro that exported worldwide, Alroh's heavy commercial and agricultural gear was mostly sold locally to WA councils, turf farms, and landscape contractors. Because it was a niche, low-volume Australian manufacturer from decades ago, very little of its historical catalog made it onto the internet.

I'd say it's an Alroh slasher by the looks of it.

How to Find the Exact Year
Check the Honda Engine Serial Number: Stamped directly onto the metal crankcase of the GX240 (usually near the base or behind the fuel tank) is a frame type and serial number code (e.g., GC04-1000001). You can cross-reference this prefix/serial combo on Honda's engine site to find the exact month and year the engine was built.

Check the Alroh Compliance Plate: Look for a riveted aluminum tag on the main chassis or near the hydrostatic drive controls. Alroh often stamped serial numbers directly into the frame. I can see a couple plates on the upper handle bars.

Finding an explicit "Made in Australia" map badge or sticker on a vintage Alroh piece aligns entirely with standard manufacturing practices of that period. Australian industrial equipment builders frequently utilized generic or universal "Australian Made" compliance badges alongside their proprietary brand decals to satisfy municipal and commercial procurement rules favoring domestic goods. Because Alroh was fiercely proud of its Western Australian manufacturing roots under Alan Hair, incorporating domestic labeling was standard practice.

Alroh Turf Machinery under Alan Ronald Hair, they built commercial-grade equipment meant to take an absolute beating on turf farms, golf courses, and municipal properties. Because those machines were over-engineered with heavy plate steel and commercial motors like the Honda GX240, they were built to last decades—which is why yours is still around, even if its siblings have long since vanished from the internet.

Alan Ronald Hair was the founder of Alroh Turf Machinery (derived from his name, Alan Ronald Hair). He operated the business as a manufacturer of specialized, heavy-duty commercial and domestic turf care equipment, including mowers and edgers, which became well-known around Australia. In addition to founding Alroh, he is historically noted for designing and building early forms of racing go-karts through his manufacturing business (Alan's Engineering and Manufacturing) located in Subiaco, Perth.


The Alroh brand has long been regarded as the best of all the manufacturers of turf equipment and for many years traded as Alroh Turf Machinery by the founder Alan Ronald Hair (Al-ro-H). At it's peak, the Alroh range of products included both commercial and domestic machines. Since 2005 the Alroh machines were for the premium domestic market. Production ceased in 2014.

Cheers
Max.

Hi guys,
I recently acquired this walk-behind slasher. The sticker says Alroh, but there’s no ID plate, serial number or model number anywhere that I can find.
From what I’ve researched, I’m not sure it’s actually an Alroh, as I can’t find any record of them making a walk-behind slasher like this.
It has:
Hydrostatic gearbox
Horizontal-shaft Honda GX240 8HP
Does anyone recognise it or know what make/model it might be?
Any help identifying it would be greatly appreciated. Cheers!

auProspector,


Well there you go, hence the reason it was ok in reverse, just another little thing to put in the memory bank. Glad you got it solved.

In case anyone else has similar symptoms... it was the small cog/sprocket. Thought it was okay but turns out was worn down just enough that with the new chain, under load, it started slipping teeth.

Short video I just took of the shuddering in action, any help figuring this out would be hugely appreciated as badly need to put mower to use!

Had another try at diagnosing the problem today... Pulled off the chain to isolate the shaft only, in case any issue with cogs, but problem remains. With the rear jacked up and pedal pushed forward just enough to see crack of light between right plate and cone (ensuring it makes no contact with cone to rule out any movement of the cone/pulley/clutch arm assembly), I can visibly see the gap grow/shrink very slightly on each rotation. And also same deal between left plate and cone.

So I have to assume the shaft/plates are not rotating perfectly true which is what's causing the shuddering issue... Only it's odd that it only shudders when driving forward, not in reverse.

But having already gotten shaft replaced, bearings replaced, and plates professionally machined... I'm still at a loss at what else could be causing this? Is it possible the plates are slightly wonky? Or something else I'm completely missing?

Thanks Bruce, however I've had the manual since day 1 of getting it -- I do refer to it very often when sourcing parts or doing repairs, for example I did use it to find the correct part numbers when sourcing the new bearings and clutch plate shaft, but unfortunately it's no help with figuring out the root cause of this particular issue.

Hi auProspector,

Below is a link for the operators manual which should be a good start to finding your problem.

Cox New generation operaters manual

Hi all, hoping some experienced members here, specifically with the old Cox cone/friction drive systems, can help me diagnose what's going on with my New Generation.

To give some history on my machine, I purchased it for a couple hundred bucks over a year ago, was told by previous owner it's only good for parts as engine is "worn". Ended up putting on a new head gasket, adjusting valve clearances, couple new belts, blades, and it's effectively been my primary mower on a 10 acre block all this time. Apart from occasional repairs on deck, or new belts, etc, it hasn't missed a beat.

Until recently, it started with intermittent shuddering/slipping when going up steep inclines, and would be fine otherwise... but progressively got worse to the point where even on flattish ground, if it was under a bit of load it began shuddering, only when going forward, more noticeable when I really had to engage forward peddle with some pressure... if I eased off pedal a bit wasn't as bad... but got to point where it became unusable.

Cone was pretty worn down, and plates not making full contact and a bit grooved... so figured just needed new cone and plates some machining. While I was at it, I also changed out bearings on clutch plate shaft as well as bearing on the cone pulley... and also changed drive chain out for a new one.

Problem is, after doing all this, the bloody shuddering issue is still there. Even worse perhaps.

The only clue as to what might be causing it, is when I jack the rear end up off the ground, and push pedal down so plate touches the cone, when I manually spin the wheels/shaft, I can only hear the plate making contact with the cone for a small portion of it's rotation. I'd got the plates professionally machined to match the new cone, and based on the marking left on plate after running it a little, it does appear to be making full width contact on both plates. So I thought well maybe somehow the clutch plate shaft has slightly bent or something (even though seemed incredibly hard to imagine how that could happen)... so ordered a brand new shaft, put it in today... and the damn problem is still there. I'm pretty much out of ideas on what could be causing it.

Anyone else had an issue like this? or any ideas at all on what could be causing it?

I’m giving away my 1955 Villiers (by Condeco) reel mower.
Model 2M14
Serial # 747

I dismantled it in early 2020 with a view to restoring it, but then COVID happened, and realistically it does not look like I will ever get around to completing the project. It seems a shame to just dump it so I thought I’d offer it to someone who might like a project.

BEFORE YOU SAY YES, please read on to understand exactly what you would be getting.

Not realistic to ship it anywhere, so would have to be pick up from eastern suburbs Melbourne.

First the bad bits.
• When I say “I dismantled it” I really mean it. I dismantled it to the last nut and bolt, so it is in a million pieces.
• There is some damage: The crankshaft has a chunk taken out of one end. The damage was done when dismantling the Magneto from the crankshaft. Corresponding to that damage, the collar that mounts the Magneto wheel on the crankshaft is destroyed. I believe a skilled machinist could probably repair the crankshaft, and maybe fabricate a new collar.
• There is a piece broken out of the cast chain guard housing. (on the bottom of the casing, doesn’t affect operation)
• There is no catcher.
• Might be missing one of the drive chains.
• The wooden rollers from the front are pretty rotten.

The good bits:
• Not too many of these left
• Pretty complete (like I said, might be missing a chain)
• Was a working mower prior to being parked up and forgotten 30 years ago!
• I have lots of photos of the dismantle process that I can give you to help with the re assembly
• Mostly stripped of paint.
• I have a manual for the 98cc Villiers Mk2 midget motor

If you have further questions, let me know.

What a lovely machine mate! Well done!

Thanks for your help Max, Appreciate it

cheers

Thanks Bruce, The only Information I have is that it is A Pope walk behind Mower Vertical Shaft Engine (2 Stoke /Single Cylinder) Rotary Valve Possibly 150cc. The bore is 2.375in (60mm) Carby is an Australian made Zenith Model Number: AH914

Not sure of Model or year I Googled AI & it said that it is from the 60's era after giving it the only numbers I found on the Flywheel cover

Engine Model: 7503 -02
Serial Number: 53606

I can't post photo's of the engine because I don't know how!!! ( Not that smart) My computer skills are limited.

G'day BB55 and Bruce,

Yes Shops won't have any manuals for sixties 125 cc Pope mowers.

Some info here if you click on links.

https://www.outdoorking-forum.com.a...60/pope-rotary-valve-2-stroke-c1957.html

https://www.outdoorking-forum.com.a...26/pope-model-320-with-manual-c1958.html

It depends if your Pope has the T handle bars or the Triangle handle and which side the carby and exhaust is on for the later models compared with the earlier ones.

[video:youtube] [/video]

The original blade plates are getting a little hard to find in good condition too.

Cheers
Max.
.

Hi BeardedBiker55,

You need to supply more information regarding the mower also a few pictures of the engine will help a great deal.

High all , I have a Pope walk behind Mower Approx 1960 era. Not sure if it is a 125cc or 150cc engine. Looking for a Workshop Manual or Parts breakdown or any information that is available to help with a restoration. I have tried Plough Book Sales in Victoria (Sent an inquiry Email) but they haven't bothered to get back to me, also Outdoor Power Equipment Australia for help also not feedback so if anyone can help with any info it would be appreciated Cheers

Hi all from Queenstown Tasmania,

I'm new here.

I thought I'd share this with you if you don't have a copy Briggs & Stratton Repair Manual

Cheers