OutdoorKing Repair Forum Forums Active Threads This Week

Hi Damon,
You can still get the manual type solonoids but they are a lot more expensive than a standard motorcycle solonoid. With the motorcycle ones you just need a push button switch to fit in the existing starter button hole to activate the solonoid. Very easy to set up
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/394108212458?
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/357271001488

Hi all,
Is the plastic starter switch which has the battery cables attached directly (basically a manual solenoid) the same as the starter switch fitted to some TE20 tractors. The part number for Ferguson are Massey Ferguson - 181679M91, 181679M1, 181679V1.

The dimensions look pretty much the same but I don’t have one to compare in person.

The switch on my mower has stopped working and it doesn’t appear to be easily disassembled for cleaning/checking.

Hi All,

Have a few old CD's of briggs image attached.

Just send me a PM an I will arrange Shipping.

Postage would be $14.50 Australia wide

Hi Adam,

M122X possibly 1989 to 1994


M120X → nominal class ≈ 120 cc

M122X → nominal class ≈ 122 cc
121–122 cc (often quoted as 121.5 cc)

As far as I know

Parts are functionally M120X

Every confirmed M122X owner who has rebuilt one has found that:

carburettor

crank seals

ignition

piston & bore

gaskets

…match M120X specifications.

In practice, suppliers, rebuilders, and forums treat M122X = M120X for parts purposes.

From what I've read the carbies are different or jetting and governor linkage.

A local mower shop should be able to clean the carby or do it yourself,

Old mowers are cheaper than parts ,usually you can find one for $10. or thrown out ones in scrap metal.

Cheers
Max.

Thanks Norm,

just for future reference, as I always have the diff locked for the hilly area I mow, would a Greenfield without diff lock be just as effective as one with (in locked position)? I assume it would, but....... And if so, did Greenfield make 34 inch units without diff locks?

I work the mower fairly hard because of the slopes and although the area gets more and more manicured, I still hit the odd rock or two, and have in the past broken decks. Drive failures seem to occur as per MattDT's 2019 Greenfield Fastcut Transmission overhaul (short shaft) post- stuck in forward or both forward and reverse simultaneously- hence I've had a play with rebuilding a transmission (although without the knowledge that MattDT made accessible in his post- hence a less than perfect effort). Up until now I've purchased second hand units with a few hundred hours on them and run them successfully for 4 or 5 years (I average 60-70 hours mowing per year) before I break a deck, an engine fails or the drive clags up. I then buy another. Lack of cash prevents me spending the big dollars on a new or nearly new unit, unfortunately.

Prior to discovering the wheel problem described in my post above, I had just finished the transplant of a transmission/drive unit I had rebuilt a few years ago (rebuilt meaning pulling down and replacing corks- not going to the lengths I should have) from a defunct a 20hp unit (governor failure as per my first post many years ago) into my current 13hp unit. I noticed that the main visible difference between units was the use of cuphead bolts and nuts securing bearing shells (?) to chassis in the 13hp, meaning the cut out in the clutch pulley is needed, whereas in the 20hp unit standard nuts and bolts are used, and there is no need for a notch in the pulley. I've yet to test it out, but I'm hopeful it will work long enough for me to do a proper rebuild of the removed drive, paying careful attention to MattDT's wisdom, which seems to suggest biting the bullet and spending close to a thousand dollars on new components such that I should get many years of trouble-free drive......Should you or anyone else have any knowledge of issues associated with such a transplant, please let me know.

Oh, and I'll let the forum know should my wheel stud fix not work as hoped. Otherwise you can assume the bolts welded in nicely and the wheel was reattached.

Thanks again.

Hi wilbur,
Interesting stuff. I have only worked on one Greenie with a diff lock fitted and I didn't have to do anything to the diff lock apart from making sure it worked. Most of the Greenies have direct drive, meaning bot rear wheels drive all the time which makes steering a bit difficult. I'm wondering how you replace the bearings on the shafts with the welded flanges, but I guess there is a way of doing it. And the welder will work fine with 60m of lead
Anyway glad you are getting it sorted, they are a good machine, just keep up the maintenance and it will last as long as you need it

Thank you NormK, I appreciate the time spent responding. Merci beaucoup.

The 3 stud wheels don't seem to be a problem to get off under normal circumstances, however this scenario had me resort to the angle grinder to remove wheel. I now see that the axle flanges are different, with the donor model having the bolt and, I assume, a key holding the flange to the axle, but the recipient model having the flange welded on. This means I'll attempt to have three new bolts welded onto the back of the flange as it appears they were originally, although I'm not 100% certain of that. I've also located someone who will do the welding, and assures me 60 odd metres of extension cord shouldn't be a problem. Not having a cordless angle grinder, I did run the cords down to the shed to run my corded grinder with no problems. So hopefully a small portable welder won't have a problem.

I've attempted to attach photos, but they don't appear in the preview available so I'll post and hope they appear. If not, I'll try again.

So, to summarise for anyone needing some help, there appears to be at least two different flange arrangements (diff lock side) on Greenfields of similar sizes and with diff locks (are there Greenfields without?), although I'm not sure of the ages of each of these machines. One type has the flange welded, the other secured with bolt and key (I'm assuming). So no transplant of flanges possible in this instance. I think I've read about short and long axles- maybe the axle flange difference relates to this axle difference- I'm just guessing though.

Crank lengths are close enough, but you might have to play with the boss lengths but no big deal

thanks Norm but if the pull start and carby etc off the GCV wont fit on the clone GXV then I might have to wait something else to turn up because all that stuff is ragged on the pope unfortunately, the next rusted out victa with any decent looking 4 stroke chonda or briggs will be fare game.. providing crank shaft length is all the same

Hi aitchey,
just chuck the Honda clone on it. Bit of a pain but just remove the spring from the brake and it should be fine. I always get a grinder in there and cut the brake shoe off but I think leaving it float in there wouldn't be an issue.

I am looking for a gearbox for an R360 Deutscher if anybody know of one kicking around Melbourne or the surrounding area. A complete mower or parts mower is fine as long as the gearbox is ok will be fine

Hi wilbur,
I can't help you much with the problem , I have an early Greenie here which has the bolt on wheels. The Anniversaries I have worked on are an absolute pig the get the wheels I have always thought that the used the same axel (taper/keyway) and just put the flange on the axel so you could unbolt the wheel to repair a puncture or replace a tyre. I assume this is how it is done so once you get the wheel off you are still going to have to get the flange off the axel. Do not hammer the axel because all you will do is damage the thread I have had to deal with that several times over the years. You may be able to get it off with a 3 jaw puller and a bit of heat. Without power to be able to work on it I think you are going to be in trouble

Hi all,

despite having posted previously it was so long ago that I feel like a first time poster....

My problem is removing a rear wheel from an Evolution Fastcut 34 (with 13hp Honda motor). As I was undertaking other, unrelated work on the unit I noticed the rear wheel (diff lock side) was loose. Closer inspection showed elongated holes in what I'd call the wheel rim (but what I believe is called the wheel hub in parts lists) as a result of the loose wheel. In attempting to remove the wheel I found one wheel stud was turning with the nut. Investigations showed the 'stud' was not a stud, but a bolt that was fastened to the inside of the axle flange by way of a weld. This was the case with the other 2 'studs' as well, however they were still fastened enough to hold from rotating while removing the wheel nuts. Subsequently, it was found that the 2 'studs' fell away from the welds and so now they aren't viable for wheel reinstall.

So, problem 1 is how to remove the wheel and tyre. I'm at the point of taking an angle grinder to the nut and stud given that the wheel is cactus, and the stud likewise. Prior to coming to this conclusion, I spent an hour trying to get something onto the head of the bolt (what I call the 'stud'), but to no avail- almost no room between the wheel and large sprocket (driven sprocket?) and a deep rim/hub in combination with remnant blobs of weld making a spanner virtually useless. I imagine this approach will see me able to remove the wheel and tyre, but......

I have had a few Greenfield ride-ons, and there are a couple of broken units sitting around ready to donate parts. I found a good wheel on a Evolution mk2 34 inch (badged as a 16-34, but I got it 2nd hand with a 17hp Briggs motor), removed it (noting a different nut size than that on the problem unit) and looked at the axle flange with the thought that I could possibly do a transplant of wheel and axle flange, instead of needing to get new studs and having them welded onto the flange with the real risk of having the same failure in the future. The donor unit has a bolt that appears to secure the flange to the axle, however close inspection of the unit to be repaired didn't reveal the same securing bolt. Further, the donor unit definitely doesn't have bolts welded to flange- more like the studs I'd expect to see (like studs I've seen holding heads in place in car engines), although in scouring the forum I've noted that a post of years and years ago suggests that a broken stud needs just to be punched out of the flange, so I'm not sure what stops it spinning)

So,

Question 1- Can anyone tell me whether the welded bolts are evidence of an earlier, non standard repair, or were they one method used by Greenfield?

Question 2- Are the flanges in each case removable and interchangeable despite the seeming different fastening set up?

The easy repair would seemingly be to remove wheel and tyre and have 3 new bolts welded into place, however the mower is in an unpowered shed at the bottom of a difficult to access slope- and not being a welder means I'd need to engage someone to do it, along with the power issue. Hence I thought that if I could exchange the flanges....... To compound matters, moving the mower, even towing it, would need to be done with only one rear wheel fitted. And to compound matters further, the grass is growing well in the Illawarra despite mild summer temperatures and I need to get mowing before it becomes too much of a trauma.

I realise how important photos are, but in this instance and at this stage of repair, it's difficult to get a photo that sheds any light on the subject. If this thread goes any further, I will make every effort to post relevant photos. I promise.

Thanks for reading this far.

Hi Ted and NormK

Thanks for the replies, saves me wasting time on it.

I forgot to mention as well as knocking its blowing a ton of smoke, would this be piston, or rod .. potentially both? anyone been up against this before, is it worth investigating or should i just plonk something else on the deck.

Cheers ...

Matt

GCV's are a pig of a motor in my opinion

Hi aitchey,
None of the GCV parts are interchangeable with the GXV or the clones.
Sorry to burst your bubble.
Cheers, Ted

Hi all like the title says I have a Victa Panther limited edition with a GCV160 with a rather nasty knock, oil is grey im pretty sure its terminal!

I have a couple options, scrap the Honda and install an old but faithful quantum I have spare, bit heavy and old but its a means to an end if I have to i will but those modern 19" Victa tin bases are pretty weak around the handles im not sure its ideal to put a heavy engine like a quantum on it

I also have an old pope with a Honda clone engine, at a glance im pretty sure its a GXV140 but it has flywheel brake, a crappy cowl and fuel tank, buggered starter etc so i was wondering how many bits of the dead GCV will transfer over to the clone GXV140 engine as in carb, tank, cowl, starter etc etc

Or if there is a better choice of clone engine I should be looking out for on a cheap mower like an old sanli or a victa v40? something that does not have flywheel brake?

If I use a clone I would like to transfer as much of the genuine honda bits over as possible including the cowl to keep it looking nice

Cheers guys let me know what you all think I should do with this very tidy but very dead panther!

Matt

Gday all, hoping this thread is still alive and active. I have recently picked up an AV everyman 15-inch cylinder mower. Runs really nice, although I need to fix the throttle at the carby. I see you guys are chasing part numbers etc so I will post what I have, hopefully in photos if I can figure that out.

Hi all,

First time poster here. I've recently found and purchased an older Rover push mower with the Suzuki M122X 2-stroke engine. I'm absolutely stoked with the general condition, it's hardly been used, but has had some sun exposure. Unsure of the year of manufacture, if anyone knows the years the M122X engine was utilized, that would be interesting.

Main question though is about the M122X v. the far more common M120X; how different are these engines? Anyone know where I can get parts for the M122X? Does anyone know if the M120X carbi will fit the M122X? Otherwise, any recommendations as to where in Aust I can send my old / current carbi for rebuild? The fuel that was in the unused mower for many years has emulsified, the ooze is everywhere from the tank, through the carbi and in the cylinder. The mower was kept in Canberra so with the hot - cold seasonal cycles, expect all soft plastics / rubbers in the fuel system to be in need of replacement.

Thanks, and I apologise in advance if this has been covered previously, that thought just occurred to me and I'll search after I post this.