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Good job, well done looks fantastic

G'day Once Again Everybody,

An update on my lawn. It has had three sprays [at half-rates], and today I double-cut it, [West-East], then spread some No. 17 Lawn Food over it, followed by a through wash in. Mind you, that will still not stop me from giving it a good drink in the early morning of tomorrow.

The two photo's in this post, clearly show the effects of the treatment [chemical wise], and we are due for rain and Electrical Storms in a couple of days time, along with the heat, so it will be interesting to see the results in a week or two's time, when I'll do the first double-cut, then most likely "Top-Dress" it, followed by "The Rub-In".

The eradication of unwanted Grasses:- Poa annua~Wintergrass [Especially, as it was a bad infestation & will definately need a pre-emergent spray, such as Endothall e.g., just before the Couch goes into hibernation], Lollium perenne~Perennial Ryegrass, Sporabilis africanus~Paramatta Grass, Digitari didactyla~Queensland Blue Couch, is complete, as are the Weeds:- Hypochaeris radicata,~Cat's Ear/False Dandelion, Trifolium repens~Clover, Taraxacum~Dandelions, Oxalis corniculata~Creeping Oxalis and most importantly Solvia pterosperma~Bindii/JoJo.

BTW: I am going to be in a constant battle to keep my lawns free of all the grasses and weeds mentioned above, due to the fact that they thrive on almost all of my neighbour's "Council Strip Verges" which are outside of our Properties and are between the property boundries and the road itself [and very probably, their own lawns too]. The majority of these are mowed at the Owner's/Renter's discretion, and in some cases, not at all. And, with that in mind, don't forget that Mother Nature has many ingenious ways of seed dispersal.

Footnote: Have you ever wondered why, after Electrical Storms, your grass, or your local Footy Ground, or Golf Course e.g., looks greener the day after? The reason for that is because every lightning flash gives all plants a brief 100% Nitrogen [N] boost, as it is the initial start of the Nitrogen Cycle.

Thanks for reading this, and I'll keep you up to date...

Cheers,

mice_elf

I restored this one, a 1958 (based on the flywheel date code), nz built i assume



Here it is after the first cut

It was buried up to the axles, and pretty rough you might say
[video:youtube]https://youtube.com/shorts/F2y7wVtxSFs?si=M_f5L4TGBou9hNv1[/video]

[video:youtube]https://youtube.com/shorts/q9O9y2-gh7I?si=_UYurSA1mQ88K-kD[/video]
(before sharpening and painting the reel, and making a new guard)

This model has a few differences to what i am guessing are the earlier ones with the multicoloured decal.
For a start it only ever had the white morrison logo, i have seen other examples like this that also have the catcher with the white logo on the front

second, the reel bearing blocks are pressed steel, the ones in the manual on this site, and other pictures i see, appear to be cast aluminium. Theres also some basic sheet metal guards that go between the drive shaft bearing block as well as the reel bearing block and the chain case on the side.

Then there are the fuel tank and exhaust, but i would imagine these differed quite frequently as i have seen several designs. I have also seen a plug in 240v electric, and a lead acid electric powered versions

I havent been able to find a catcher for this one (without buying another complete mower) so am currently modifying the 1960s replacement model catcher to fit. (roughly the same shape, but quite different where it counts)

Thanks Max, I will give it go!!!

Regards
Tory

Hi RayRay,

This might do the job for you CLICK HERE

Greetings Gentlemen, and Ladies of the Manor,
My Supercut has moved on to greener pastures and noe I have more room in my shed.

My current project is a Homelite ST100 line trimmer, from the seventies.
The motor is at the cutting end, direct drive, and the handle contains the fuel.
The muffler is incorporated into the grass shield.
Amazing, and grunty.

However, I have searched high and low for a replacement spool for the 4 inch cutting head, or failing that, a 3 inch head and spool complete.
Does anyone have such a thing in their garage?

A few years on. A year or so ago Mr 10 year old put it away for winter, leaving it with a full tank of fuel and the fuel tap on. By Summer the tank was empty and the carb was full of gum. Several go-arounds led to :
- A new carb
- Home made gaskets (quality gasket paper)
- A new clutch half (the old one had no set screws left and was flogged out)
- A new clutch thrust bearing (the old one was grabbing even after a flush and re-grease)

So we're back on the grass. My idea of "raked" and his were different, so after what looks like a couple of stones and at least one nail the blades "need some work" and one of the cylinder bearings is screaming like a banshee. Those bearings were replaced last sharpen. This time I'll replace them with units from my local bearing house rather than whatever the local grinder uses.

The Diplomat is still sitting out the back with a full set of brand new bearings, but I've offered it to a guy for parts. Not that many of them around with functioning drive gears these days and it's just taking up space.

G'day Mike

Take lots of photos of the mower from all angles.

Identify missing, broken, or seized parts.

Make a list of what you need to replace or repair (nuts, bolts, bearings, paint, blades, etc.).

Check for historical manuals or diagrams online

This gives you a clear idea of scope — saves frustration later.

2️⃣ Clean and Degrease

Even before sanding or dent repair, give it a good clean:

Remove loose dirt, grass, and grease.

Use degreaser on the reel, gearbox, and handles.

Avoid soaking bearings and shafts yet — just clean the surfaces.

Pro tip: Cleaning now helps you see rust, dents, and cracks better.

3️⃣ Disassembly

Take the mower apart carefully.

Label each part or use ziplock bags for small screws/bolts.

Take more photos during disassembly — very helpful when reassembling.

Order tip for novices:

Remove handles and frame panels

Remove cutting reel and bed knife

Remove gearbox, wheels, and axle assemblies

Don’t force stuck parts — penetrating oil can help.

4️⃣ Cosmetic Work (Rust & Dents)

Yes, generally cosmetic first:

Rust Removal:

Light surface rust: wire brush, steel wool, or sandpaper.

Heavier rust: naval jelly, vinegar soak, or a wire-wheel attachment.

Powder-coated or painted surfaces: consider stripping old paint first (chemical stripper or sandblasting).

Dent Repair:

Small dents: hammer + dolly or soft mallet.

Big dents: consider body filler if it’s on painted panels (not critical for mechanical function).

Final Prep:

Sand all surfaces to smooth metal.

Wipe down with solvent before painting.

5️⃣ Mechanical Inspection

Once the cosmetic surfaces are sorted:

Check the reel bearings, wheel bearings, and gearbox.

Spin the reel by hand — is it tight or binding?

Inspect blade tips and bed knife. They can often be sharpened rather than replaced.

Grease and oil moving parts.

Replace any missing fasteners.

Pro tip: This is easier after paint is cured to avoid scratching new surfaces.

6️⃣ Painting / Finishing

Mask off mechanical parts like bearings, gears, and blade edges.

Primer → Paint → Clear coat if desired.

Let paint cure fully before reassembly.

7️⃣ Reassembly

Follow photos and part labels.

Lubricate moving parts as you go.

Adjust reel-to-bed knife clearance (Scott Bonnar mowers are famous for needing careful adjustment).

Test-roll the mower before using it on grass.

8️⃣ Testing

Start with a small patch of grass.

Check for:

Smooth reel rotation

Proper cut height

No unusual vibrations or squeaks



Take your time.

Use YouTube or mower forums for visual guidance — there are Scott Bonnar enthusiasts with step-by-step videos.

Document everything — even small steps help during reassembly.

If something looks rusty but structurally sound, you can sometimes clean, prime, and paint rather than replace.

Cheers
Max.

Hi ToryC,

This is what I saw online might be worth a try.


✅ 1. Penetrating Oil + Time (Not WD-40)

Use a proper penetrant:

Kroil

PB Blaster

CRC Freeze Off

Inox MX-5

Soak the shaft where the cone meets it from both ends if possible.
Let it sit overnight—this alone sometimes breaks the bond.

✅ 2. Apply Axial Heat (But Carefully)

The cone is mild steel; the shaft is hardened.
You want to expand the cone, not the shaft.

Method:

Use a MAP gas torch (preferred) or propane.

Heat only the outer cone hub, keep heat away from the thrust pad area.

Heat slowly and evenly until it’s too hot to touch but not red-hot.

Quickly apply more penetrating oil (it will wick in as it cools).

🔥 Do NOT heat the shaft directly—you can ruin its hardness.

✅ 3. Use a 2- or 3-Jaw Puller—But With a Spacer

If you grab the edges of the cone without supporting the PTO shaft, you risk:

bending the shaft

collapsing the cone

damaging the bearing or crankcase

Proper setup:

Put a short, thick bolt between the puller center screw and the PTO shaft end so the shaft isn’t mushroomed.

Position jaws under the meatiest part of the cone, not the edge.

Tighten preload, then:

tap the cone hub LIGHTLY with a hammer (to shock it),

tighten a little more,

tap again.

These cones usually release with a loud POP.

✅ 4. The “Heat + Puller + Shock” Combo (Most Effective)

Heat the cone hub as above.

Apply tension with the puller.

While under tension, strike the hub sharply radially (sideways) with a brass hammer.

This breaks corrosion bonds extremely well.

✅ 5. If You Have No Puller: The Wedge Trick

Last resort—only if you accept risk of replacing the cone.

Heat the cone hub.

Insert two opposing cold chisels or pry wedges behind the cone (NOT between cone and thrust pad).

Tap them in evenly, alternating sides.

⚠️ This method can crack cones, so use only if replacements are available.

❗ Avoid These Mistakes

Do not hammer the shaft end directly (it will mushroom and trap the cone forever).

Do not apply red-hot heat (you’ll wreck the temper of the shaft).

Do not pry against the crankcase.

Do not clamp vice grips to the shaft—scratches create future binding.

🧼 After It Comes Off

Clean everything:

Wet-sand the PTO shaft with 800–1200 grit

Polish with metal polish

Apply anti-seize before reassembly (very important!)

Check:

Cone bore for scoring

Thrust pad flatness

PTO shaft straightness

Keyway condition

Cheers
Max.

G'day Magilla,

The in and out movement is normal but the arm should not have sideways slop.

Check Crankcase Oil Level

Too much oil will push oil out of the weakest point—including the governor shaft.

Drain down to the correct level if overfilled.


Remove the breather assembly.

Clean the reed/flap or disc thoroughly with petrol/brake cleaner.

Make sure the breather only lets air OUT, not IN.

Reinstall.

If the breather sticks even slightly, crankcase pressure blows oil out the governor arm hole.

This alone fixes about 50% of “leaking governor arm” cases.

It just depends on what type of governor arm you are working with and without it apart you can't tell.



✅ 1. Bushing-Only Design (NO SEAL)

In some engines the governor shaft simply passes through a close-fitting bronze bushing in the crankcase.
Oil control relies on:

Tight clearance between shaft & bushing

Crankcase pressure being low

A light smear of oil acting as a film seal

When these wear, they always start leaking.

If yours has no visible rubber seal, this is likely the case.

👉 Fix:

Replace the governor shaft (if worn/grooved at the exit point)

Ream or replace the crankcase bushing

OR install an external retro-seal (see option 3 below)

This is the hardest and least common repair because it requires engine disassembly.

✅ 2. Grooved Shaft + O-Ring Design

Some models have:

A machined groove on the governor shaft

A small O-ring that sits in the crankcase housing right where the shaft exits

This O-ring acts as the seal.

Signs:

You see a thin groove or step machined on the shaft

The hole in the crankcase looks “counterbored” to fit an O-ring

No external rubber seal pressed in

👉 Fix:

Replace the O-ring with:

Fuel- and oil-resistant Viton O-ring

Correct size (often 1/4″ ID × 3/8″ OD × 1/16″ CS or metric equivalent depending on model)

If the groove is worn or shaft polished:

Replace the shaft

Or move to an oversized O-ring if slop is tiny (not ideal, but works temporarily)

✅ 3. Retrofitting a Seal (VERY common field fix)

If the original design had no seal or the bushing is worn, many mower techs do this:

Remove governor arm

Drill/clean the opening slightly

Press in a tiny rubber lip seal (like used on Briggs models—often 3/8" OD)

Reinstall arm and clip

This works surprisingly well if there is enough crankcase material around the shaft exit.

I can help you choose the correct dimensions if you want to measure the shaft.

⚠️ Also check for crankcase pressure

Even a perfect shaft-seal design will leak if pressure is high.

Check:

Breather valve working

No blocked breather hose

No overfilled oil

No stuck rings / blow-by

Install a retrofit lip seal around the governor shaft (the common repair techs do)

Because many old engines leak from this exact spot, mower mechanics often fit a small external oil seal into the crankcase wall.

How it’s done:

Remove governor arm and clean the area.

Measure the governor shaft with calipers

Lightly counterbore the crankcase hole with a drill or end mill to match a small seal OD.

Press a mini rubber lip seal into the hole (e.g.,
Shaft 6 mm → seal 6 × 12 × 4 mm,
**Shaft 1/4″ → seal 1/4″ × 1/2″ × 3/16″).

Reinstall arm and linkage.

✔ Works extremely well
✔ No need to open the engine
✔ Cheap
❌ Requires careful drilling and alignment
❌ Must not drill too deep into crankcase





This is the most practical fix for home and shop use.

3️⃣ Field-expedient fix: install an external O-ring in a shallow recess

If you don’t want to machine for a seal, you can:

Lightly countersink the crankcase hole

Fit a tight O-ring that the governor arm presses against

Apply a non-hardening sealant (Yamabond / Dirko)

It’s better than nothing, but not ideal.

Cheers
Max.

Hi Mike33,

That wire as shown in the parts list below it is the stop wire but you don't need to connect it as the throttle control on the motor has the stop connector there.

Cheers Max,

Already have a working MTD trimmer although 2-stroke, just thought I'd like to play with something electric. The cat's not a big fan of the petrol stuff either!

Danny

Hi Colin,
Good to hear, I have only had one Greenie here that was fitted with a diff lock and I only clicked it in and out to make sure it was working. With the diff lock disengaged it makes turning them so much easier. Sounds like somebody has scavenged it from a Greenie. I have often wondered how the conversion would go on an earlier Greenie I built for Sheriff in the Club because he is having trouble turning his with both rear wheels driving. Anyway good to hear your drive is now working

Went around to the local Cox agent,he hadn't seen a Cox with that type of diff lock,he said that was only fitted to Greenfields(he had a couple of those new also along with 8 Cox's). It's a sealed unit.With that I got home and played around with that pin and when it's out wheel freely spun so probably no problem and I'll never have a need for diff lock as block is dead flat.

Hi, I recently picked up what I believe to be a Scott Bonnar model 33 lawnmower off the side of the road during a council rubbish collecfion.

I have absolutely zero mechanical knowledge currently but would like to restore it back to its former glory before using it to cut my lawn. Based on reading some posts here I believe it to be a mark 2 model as it has a belt and chain configuration.

The original engine I believe has been replaced with a briggs and stratton 475 series 148cc. It also has a Rover speed control switch. I will try to upload some pictures.

Although I haven't tried starting it yet, apart from the odd dents and scratches the mower seems to be in good condition for its age, except for a random bit of wire sticking out from the front of the engine.

My question is, what's the wire sticking out from the engine and where should I start in a restoration process from a complete novice prospective, I assume rust and dent removal would be the first steps before trying the mechanical side of things.



Kind regards
Mike

Hi Dandare,

If I was choosing ,I'd just get a Honda GX25 from Bunnings for $429 or possibly cheaper online. If the battery powered trimmer
is not used in winter (Grass growth slows dramatically as temperatures drop, and below about 3–5 °C most common turfgrasses effectively stop growing.) As we know Batteries degrade when not used over time.

My neighbour has had a GX35 for many years and all it needed was fuel lines and a new carby for $30. and my
GX25 can sit unused for 6 months and put some fuel in and it will start second pull and that was second hand and cost $17.

The Honda 4 strokes are a lot less noisy than 2 stroke trimmers.

EGO ST1401E-ST-KIT

56 V battery platform (ARC Lithium).

Kit includes 2.5 Ah battery + charger.

Up to ~45 minutes runtime (with 2.5 Ah battery) in typical use.

35 cm cutting width (350 mm) and high-efficiency brushless motor.

Telescopic aluminium shaft (adjustable length) for comfort.

Warranty: 5-year tool, 3-year battery (conditions apply) in Australia.


Risks & Things That Could Make the EGO Option Less Ideal:

Runtime may be limiting: With the 2.5Ah battery, 45 minutes is decent, but if you’re doing a lot in one go or have a big yard, it could be tight.

Battery cost: If you need a second battery, the cost adds up.

Some user complaints: some people report issues with line heads, or having to buy replacement parts.

Overfeeding / line problems: For some PowerLoad or “line IQ” heads, there are reports of line feeding problems.



Honda 4-Stroke (unleaded fuel, no oil/fuel mixing). For example, the 25cc bent shaft line trimmer.

Lightweight for petrol (some around ~6-7 kg dry weight) though heavier than many cordless units when you include full tank + user gear.

One‐pull easy start (Honda’s reputation for reliability).

Better torque and uninterrupted runtime — as long as you have fuel, you’re good.

Price for example: around ~A$429 for the 25cc 4-stroke model at some stores.
Bunnings Warehouse

🔍 What you gain & what you give up
What you gain with EGO (battery)

Very low maintenance: no petrol mixing, fewer fumes, quieter.

Easy to start instantly (no pull‐cord engine).

Lightweight and flexible (cordless means no trailing cable).

If you already or plan to own other EGO 56 V tools, you’ll benefit from shared battery/charger ecosystem.

Great for moderate residential trimming jobs: edging, general maintenance.

What you give up / potential limitations

Runtime limited by battery capacity. The 2.5 Ah battery might be fine for small-to-medium yard, but if you go big or have lots of thick growth you might find yourself needing a second battery or waiting to recharge.

Battery will degrade over time (all lithium‐ion do) and the cost of extra batteries can add up.

Possibly less “grunt” (torque) compared to a petrol engine when tackling very thick weeds, heavy overgrowth or long continuous sessions.

if you add a higher capacity battery later it can add cost.

What you gain with Honda 4‐stroke (petrol)

Strong, consistent performance; good for tougher jobs.

Unlimited runtime (as long as you have fuel) — great for large properties or extended trimming.

Very reliable engine (especially from Honda’s reputation) and well proven.

No “battery fade” concern while trimming.

Good value especially if you prefer to “set and forget” without worrying about charging cycles.

What you give up / potential drawbacks

More maintenance: oil changes, air filters, spark plugs, petrol fuel management.

Heavier machine (engine + fuel + tank) which may be more tiring for longer use or if you’re trimming large areas or overhead/edges.

More noise, more vibration; more exhausted quicker especially if you do frequent trimming.

Fuel cost, storage of fuel, dealing with emissions (though 4‐stroke is better than 2‐stroke in that respect).

If you only have a small job/yard, you might not need all the extra performance, so the additional weight & maintenance might be “overkill”.

🎯 What your decision should depend on

Here are key questions for your situation to help pick:

Size of your yard / area to trim: If your lot is modest (typical suburban block) and trimming is just for edges and maintenance, then the EGO likely is sufficient. If you have a large property, long fences, embankments, thick weeds or lots of verge/out‐back trimming, the Honda might handle more easily.

Frequency of use: Do you use it often, or just occasionally? Occasional use favours cordless for convenience; frequent/hard use leans petrol.

Type of vegetation: If you’re trimming mostly grass and light weeds, cordless is great. If you have heavy brush, thick tough growth, etc., petrol gives more “reserve”.

Existing tool ecosystem: If you already have (or plan to buy) other EGO 56 V tools (lawn mower, blower, etc), then the cordless battery ecosystem gives big benefits.

Maintenance tolerance & preference: If you prefer low maintenance, less fuss, battery is attractive. If you don’t mind servicing engine, fuel, etc — petrol is fine.

Budget & future expansion: Consider cost of extra batteries/charger if cordless, vs fuel/servicing costs of petrol.

Noise/vibration preferences: Cordless wins in comfort and ease; petrol wins in grunt.

🧮 recommendation


If your yard is moderate size (say suburban block), vegetation is normal weeds/grass, and you value ease of use + low maintenance → go with the EGO ST1401E-ST-KIT. It gives excellent convenience and good performance for typical tasks.

If your yard is large, or you have heavy trimming tasks (e.g., long lengths, thick growth, long sessions) or you expect to use the unit very frequently (commercial pace) → the Honda 4-stroke becomes more appropriate. The extra flexibility and power may pay off.

If you go with the EGO, consider upgrading battery later (to maybe 4 Ah or more) if you find runtime insufficient. But it’s a good start with the 2.5 Ah kit.

On the Honda side, check the weight and ergonomics for you (especially if you’ll hold it overhead, do edges, etc). Even though 4‐stroke is better than 2‐stroke for ease, petrol still demands more physical effort than cordless.

The major risk for the EGO cost is the battery: if the 2.5 Ah battery lasts well and you don’t need to upgrade, the cost is much lower. Conversely, if you buy a second or replacement, that’s the big cost hit.

For the Honda, the risk is less in “running cost” but more in maintenance / “wear & tear” — though small 4-stroke engines are pretty durable.

There’s also a time / opportunity cost: with EGO, you need to wait for battery charging (or have a second battery). With Honda, you just refuel quickly and keep going.


Cheers
Max.

Thanks for your ideas Max. I'm looking at this again and a mower shop nearby has offered an EGO ST1401E-ST-KIT for $520.00. This I believe is the basic model with 56V & 2.5Ah battery & charger.

How does that sound?

Hi Colin,
Yep I haven't ridden my old Interceptor for probably 5 years now, Got home from a meeting one night and it took me a long time to be able to get off it. I figured then it was probably a good idea for me to stop riding
And yes I am still fixing Ants mowers as he still has little knowledge of anything mechanical. If you remember he started the Club all those years ago because he wanted somebody to fix his Enfield. Haven't fixed any of his bikes lately, but he always has a mower here needing repairs

Hello there Norm,well well the circles have turned,it took me a minute to think who could this be,then it came back and i remember you and Ant got into the mowers..I've just gone through the parts book and it looks like this pin on the end of the axle is a diff lock so will have a look in the morning.Hey the old enfields are out of favor these days,mine are all parked up.

Hi Colin, long time no hear, don't know anything about your Stockman tranny but I do know a bit about the old Enfields

Hi guys, I bought a Stockman,25K96,0774 13 hp Honda a few weeks ago,It hadn't run in many years I gathered. I'm just running the spanners over it and will use it this wet season as the push has turned into a 2 day affair now.Changed the engine oil and it fired up and is running well,took it for a run up the driveway where upon it shuddered and clunked every now and then,I thought it may have been the drive chain rusted or the tensioner as something was grabbing and releasing, today I took that wheel off,chain doesn't have any tight spots so I'm thinking something in the diff is off,maybe no lube is present.So thought I'd ask here before opening that up.There's a valve release? which comes out through the rim,which I'm thinking may release oil as i can't see any plugs for topping up oil or draining it.Nothing came out.So is this a straight forward job?Any special tools needed.Hours on gauge is 537 and lights and the rest of the mower looks to be quite ok.
regards
Colin