https://www.outdoorking-forum.com.au/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=cfrm Recent Topics en-us Sat, 16 May 2026 22:50:42 UTC 5 support@outdoorking-forum.com.au (OutdoorKing Repair Forum) UBB.threads https://www.outdoorking-forum.com.au/forum/images/general/default/rss_icon.gif https://www.outdoorking-forum.com.au/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=cfrm https://www.outdoorking-forum.com.au/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/122187.html#Post122187
I too have heard about the Facebook comments, and I do tend to agree with you regarding rip-offs. All of what I'm saying below on this topic--is "old hat"

My present SB Model 45 17" was purchased from them roughly 12 years ago. and at the time I got them to replace the original cylinder for a brand new 7 bladed one [Black in colour], which was then lathed as was the new bottom blade, and then adjusted to give a perfect match. It came with a Vintage 1977 B&S -- 3 HP, Model 80303 08339-01 77061001 engine on it. [See attached pic and you will be able to see the original B&S red paint, under the Black paint over-spray.] From memory, about AU$1,700 all up and delivery was free.

Suddenly, about 18 months later, the engine siezed for no apparent reason. It had the correct amount of oil, a brand new spark plug, and I looked after it well. I'm still in the process of slowly dismantling it [as time permits], to try and discover what went wrong. Also, finding the Manuals -- Operators & Exploding Parts, has proven to be next to impossible! When completed, my findings will be the subject of another post.

So, in essence, I ended up with a AU$1,700 mower without an engine. However, I can say that the back split-rollers, twin rails, clutch assembly, chains & sprockets, front roller, cylinder, nuts & bolts and catcher etc., are all still in first class condition, with no signs of rust, or dents, including beneath the side cover.

That's my experience of dealing with them...

mice-elf

]]> Tue, 17 Feb 2026 08:37:02 +0000 mice_elf https://www.outdoorking-forum.com.au/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/122187.html#Post122187 https://www.outdoorking-forum.com.au/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/121951.html#Post121951
Regards
Tory

]]> Wed, 19 Nov 2025 02:32:24 +0000 ToryC https://www.outdoorking-forum.com.au/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/121951.html#Post121951 https://www.outdoorking-forum.com.au/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/121415.html#Post121415
Before I begin, have a look at [pics. 1 & 2].

I hope I can be of some help to you regarding this problem you have with your Hex. Lock-nut ¾" UNF [Unified Fine], Left Hand Thread.

To get at it, you will need to remove the damaged bearing housing completely, and the best way [and by far the easiest] is to use a bearing puller [see pic. 3]. The hole in the middle of the cylinder shaft surrounded by the red marking in your photo, is specifically there for this purpose, and also for use when your cylinder is being professionally sharpened using a lathe.

First though, remove the grease nipples then spray some WD40 into the holes. As for the alloy housing, you can use a large Stillsons wrench e.g. to try to gently rotate it, without causing any further damage.

Then, if it won't come off, you can use a bearing puller to remove it. Once it is completely off, you can then get the two parts welded together. The nut [see pics. 4 & 5] will be fully exposed and you should be able to get it off, remembering of course that it is a left handed thread nut, so you will need to turn it clockwise for removal. To prevent the cylinder from turning when you do this, place a stout piece of wood between the blades and your bench-top.

Regarding the bottom blade, once you have removed both alloy bearing houses, lock-nuts and bottom blade adjusters [see pic. 6] you should be able to take your cylinder and bed housing with the blade still on it, to a specialist and get them machined [i.e. both ground on a lathe, to get a perfect match]. Your bottom blade will need to be in pretty good nick though, for this to happen.

It is worth pointing out here that my bearings [see pic. 7] are sealed. They are [NSK 6304 V 845], and there is a Circlip [52mm INT] on each housing that holds them into place. I should also mention that these mowers, when they where first released over here, they had [NSE 6304], or the equivalent of, installed, which were sealed on one side only, and the idea was that the exposed side would sit tightly against the alloy holders wall, and you would use the grease nipples to lubricate them. Having said that, the grease nipples are still attached to my alloy housings, as they prevent any fine debris getting in, as this helps when it's maintenance time...

I hope this helps you get out of your predicament,

Cheers,

mice_elf

]]> Fri, 25 Apr 2025 08:08:45 +0000 mice_elf https://www.outdoorking-forum.com.au/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/121415.html#Post121415 https://www.outdoorking-forum.com.au/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/121234.html#Post121234
I have done a general search with no results.

I was hoping to find a bearing list for the Scott Bonnar 45 17" Single deck. I have found SB part numbers but was looking for a converted list of say SKF or Nsk part numbers
I wanted to do a bit of a cheat and order through work from our Bearing supplier

Is there also a bolt size list somewhere also?

Thanks in advance for any info or where I could look

]]> Tue, 25 Mar 2025 22:23:30 +0000 Nismo https://www.outdoorking-forum.com.au/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/121234.html#Post121234 https://www.outdoorking-forum.com.au/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/121126.html#Post121126

Warning: My method of doing this on my Model 45, requires tilting the mower backwards, so the rubber handle grips are touching the ground. Because the Spark Plug is located at the back of my engine, and if your's is in the same location, then I suggest that you drain most of your engine oil out into a container, before you do this, as this will help to prevent any hydrolocking of the piston. Remove your spark plug, and replace it with an old used one [do not connect the rubber grommet to your plug] or, alternatively, leave the aperture open [i.e. no plug in at all], and the petrol needs to be completely shut off as well.

Now then... let's suppose you are doing your regular mowing, when all of a sudden you get that dreaded 'ping' and 'thud' sound as the object hits your cylinder and bottom blade and is then dispatched into the catcher, [for this example, we will assume the foreign object is a small to medium sized stone]. Immediately shut gown your engine, and head to your normal mower maintenance area, then do the above before doing anything else. At this point, I am unsure if the above procedure is necessary if your spark plug is located at the front of your engine, so maybe someone can comment on that.

Once you have done everything as described above, tilt your mower back, so the rubber handles are touching the ground. Throughly examine your bottom blade and you will eventually find the damaged area. Now what I do here is get my lump hammer, and move one undamaged cylinder blade so that it is directly under the damaged blade area. A few mild hits with the hammer will remove the dent. I normally do this 10cm on either side of the damaged area, moving the cylinder very slightly, so that I am always hitting the bottom blade in line with the cylinder blade itself.

Eventually, you will find that you have virtually "panel beated" the damaged area completely, and then to make things even better, a through backlap using medium, then fine paste should see you back in action relatively quickly. You will very likely also have to adjust the cutting adjustment screw, usually one eighth of a turn for each side, then test your quality of cut with a piece of grass to ensure it cuts clean, with no tears or rips.

When your happy with the results, return your mower to the upright position, and ensure your mower On/Off switch is in the Off position, and if you used an old plug during this process, remove it. Then pull your recoil handle and watch for any oil that spurts from the MT plug aperture. This will free your piston from possibly hydrolocking. It may initially seem difficult to get a full revolution, but after a few attempts, it should work as normal. Then, replace your engine oil you removed earlier, making sure it is topped up to the full position. Lastly, remove the side bolt on your carby bowl, and drain it completely, then turn your petrol supply back on to flush out any impurities. When it is clean, turn off the petrol supply and replace the bolt. Now put back your original plug, after giving it a good clean, turn on your petrol supply, wait a few seconds and then start your engine.

See this post: https://outdoorking-forum.com.au/fo...809-83100-engine-problem.html#Post121016 for more detailed info.

Note: This will [or should keep you going] temporarily, but I highly recommend you get your cylinder and bottom blade ground, by a specialist, in the off growing season.

I hope that this post is of some help to you all that use cylinder mowers, and that have suffered this type of unfortunate mishap.

Cheers,

mice_elf

]]> Sat, 08 Mar 2025 09:12:45 +0000 mice_elf https://www.outdoorking-forum.com.au/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/121126.html#Post121126 https://www.outdoorking-forum.com.au/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/121627.html#Post121627
]]> Tue, 22 Jul 2025 21:36:41 +0000 Bonnar_Bloke https://www.outdoorking-forum.com.au/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/121627.html#Post121627 https://www.outdoorking-forum.com.au/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/121628.html#Post121628
]]> Tue, 22 Jul 2025 21:41:00 +0000 Bonnar_Bloke https://www.outdoorking-forum.com.au/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/121628.html#Post121628 https://www.outdoorking-forum.com.au/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/120958.html#Post120958
I'd say it's a Scott Bonnar Model 65.

https://www.outdoorking-forum.com.a...supercut-brochure-c1970s.html#Post107347

The pump up wheels are used for transporting the mower and are removable once the mower is moved to the mowing area.

Cheers
Max.

]]> Fri, 14 Feb 2025 09:24:21 +0000 maxwestern https://www.outdoorking-forum.com.au/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/120958.html#Post120958 https://www.outdoorking-forum.com.au/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/120512.html#Post120512
]]> Sun, 05 Jan 2025 11:42:53 +0000 KenMar https://www.outdoorking-forum.com.au/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/120512.html#Post120512 https://www.outdoorking-forum.com.au/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/120473.html#Post120473
Manufacturers have made the reel mower more complicated with twin handles etc. but the SB45 just does the job, and does it exceptionally well.

Cheerz

]]> Tue, 31 Dec 2024 09:46:26 +0000 KenMar https://www.outdoorking-forum.com.au/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/120473.html#Post120473