https://www.outdoorking-forum.com.au/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=cfrm Recent Topics en-us Thu, 21 May 2026 06:01:41 UTC 5 support@outdoorking-forum.com.au (OutdoorKing Repair Forum) UBB.threads https://www.outdoorking-forum.com.au/forum/images/general/default/rss_icon.gif https://www.outdoorking-forum.com.au/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=cfrm https://www.outdoorking-forum.com.au/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/122047.html#Post122047
The lawn was initially Double cut, and then Single cut in two directions, without using the catcher. [See pic attachment]

The reason for that is that all the clippings, still hold fertiliser from the initial application, and they will leak this back into the surface, providing more nutrients to the lawn itself.

I Backlapped my SB Model 45 - 17" [7 Blade Cylinder, using 3 pastes, starting with course, then medium, and finally fine], throughly before doing this, as it needed to be a clean and sharp cut, and the reason for that is, any bruising or damage to the couch, would leave me open to fungal diseases, such as Helminthosporium 'Helmo', or Clarireedia 'Dollar Spot'.

I can not stress enough here, that your cylinder & bottom blade need to to be in A1 condition, especially at this time of the season. The reason for this is that you need to remove the early morning 'Dew', and the best & easiest way to do that is to give your lawn a quick syringe with a hose, before the heat arrives.

My only regret in all these posts, is that I don't possess a Lawn Roller apart from the split one on my Scotty.

Merry Xmas & a Happy New Year to you all, that read this,

Regards,

mice_elf

]]> Thu, 18 Dec 2025 11:43:07 +0000 mice_elf https://www.outdoorking-forum.com.au/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/122047.html#Post122047 https://www.outdoorking-forum.com.au/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/120572.html#Post120572
]]> Wed, 08 Jan 2025 07:23:47 +0000 maxwestern https://www.outdoorking-forum.com.au/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/120572.html#Post120572 https://www.outdoorking-forum.com.au/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/119713.html#Post119713
Here’s a step-by-step guide to help you achieve this:

Assess the Logs: Before you start, examine the logs to understand the sapwood-to-heartwood ratio. This will help you plan your cuts and splits more effectively.

Positioning the Logs: Place the logs on the splitter in such a way that the sapwood is positioned where the splitter’s wedge will make contact. You may need to experiment with the placement to ensure the splitter cuts through the sapwood layer without splitting the heartwood excessively.

Adjust Splitter Settings: Most hydraulic log splitters have adjustable settings. Set the splitter to a slower speed to give you more control over the splitting process. This allows you to direct the split more precisely along the sapwood.

Mark Your Logs: Before splitting, mark the logs to indicate where you want the split to occur. Use a chalk line or marker to outline where you want to separate the sapwood from the heartwood.

Test Splitting: Do a few test splits with smaller or less valuable logs to refine your technique. This will help you understand how the splitter interacts with the sapwood and heartwood, and adjust your method accordingly.

Use a Wedge for Precision: If you find it challenging to split exactly where you want, consider using a manual or hydraulic wedge. Place the wedge on the log where you want the split to occur. The splitter can then drive the wedge into the log, creating a more controlled split.

Support the Logs: Ensure that the logs are securely supported on the splitter’s bed to prevent shifting. This stability helps in achieving a more consistent split along the desired line.

Monitor the Process: Keep an eye on the splitting process. If you notice that the split is not aligning with the sapwood layer, adjust the log’s position or the splitter’s settings as needed.

Handle with Care: Be mindful of the logs' stability and your safety throughout the process. Logs can shift or fall, so keep your workspace clear and use safety gear.

Post-Split Processing: After splitting, you might need to further trim or shape the heartwood to remove any remaining sapwood or rough edges.

By carefully positioning the logs and adjusting your technique, you should be able to use the hydraulic splitter effectively to separate the sapwood from the heartwood.



To remove sapwood and retain only the heartwood from logs, you can use a few different methods, depending on the tools and resources available to you. Here are some effective approaches:
1. Chainsaw or Circular Saw

Chainsaw:

Cutting Technique: Use a chainsaw to make longitudinal cuts along the length of the log, focusing on cutting away the sapwood while leaving the heartwood intact. Start by making a cut along the outer edge of the sapwood, then remove it in sections.
Precision: Mark the boundary between sapwood and heartwood before cutting to guide your cuts accurately.

Circular Saw:

Rip Cutting: If the logs are smaller in diameter, you can use a circular saw to make rip cuts. Similar to the chainsaw, make cuts along the outer edge of the sapwood to remove it.

2. Hand Tools

Drawknife:

Usage: A drawknife can be used to shave off the sapwood manually. This tool is effective for removing thin layers and works well if you prefer a more hands-on approach.
Technique: Pull the drawknife along the length of the log to peel away the sapwood.

Spokeshave:

Usage: For more precision, especially on smaller logs or finer work, a spokeshave can be used to shave off sapwood.
Technique: Carefully shave the sapwood off, following the grain of the wood.

3. Planer

Hand Planer or Electric Planer:

Usage: An electric planer or hand planer can be used to remove layers of sapwood. This method is particularly useful if you need a smooth finish.
Technique: Adjust the depth of the planer to remove only the sapwood. Pass the planer over the log to gradually remove the outer layers.

4. as mentioned above a Hydraulic Log Splitter

While a log splitter is typically used for splitting logs, it can be adapted for removing sapwood if you carefully control the splitter's positioning. Place the log so the sapwood is aligned with the splitting wedge.
Technique: Adjust the splitter settings for slow operation and monitor the process to ensure the split occurs where you want it.

5. Band Saw

Band Saw:

Usage: If you have access to a large band saw, it can be used to slice off the sapwood in thin layers.
Technique: Adjust the blade width and position to carefully cut away the sapwood while keeping the heartwood intact.

6. Mechanical or Power Tools

Lathe:

Usage: For cylindrical logs or turning projects, a lathe can remove sapwood while shaping the heartwood.
Technique: Turn the log and carefully shave off the sapwood layers.

Tips for All Methods:

Mark Clearly: Always mark the boundary between sapwood and heartwood to guide your cutting or shaving process.
Safety First: Wear appropriate safety gear such as gloves, goggles, and hearing protection, especially when using power tools.
Test Cuts: Perform test cuts or shavings on smaller logs to fine-tune your technique before working on larger logs.

By using these methods, you can effectively remove the sapwood and retain the heartwood, depending on your specific needs and available tools.

You can even run the jigsaw around the edges kinda following the edge of the sap line to remove sapwood.

There are angle grinder attachments that will remove sapwood after splitting .

Cheers
Max.

]]> Fri, 06 Sep 2024 11:55:18 +0000 maxwestern https://www.outdoorking-forum.com.au/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/119713.html#Post119713 https://www.outdoorking-forum.com.au/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/117668.html#Post117668 sounds like a huge project you took on there, should make it a lot easier to water the garden. Hope the shoulder gets better quickly, they can take a long time to heal and the older you get the longer things take to heal

]]> Tue, 07 Mar 2023 03:55:24 +0000 NormK https://www.outdoorking-forum.com.au/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/117668.html#Post117668 https://www.outdoorking-forum.com.au/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/115752.html#Post115752
It's common when searching for the right part it doesn't show in the list ,I kept changing the search words and found them
on the third go.

]]> Fri, 24 Jun 2022 08:09:49 +0000 maxwestern https://www.outdoorking-forum.com.au/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/115752.html#Post115752 https://www.outdoorking-forum.com.au/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/115679.html#Post115679
But the back is predominantly couch. The trimmer line will rip the crap out, and knock the stolons around a bit, but doesn't physically rip them out like the bolts.

]]> Thu, 16 Jun 2022 02:34:13 +0000 Tyler https://www.outdoorking-forum.com.au/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/115679.html#Post115679 https://www.outdoorking-forum.com.au/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/115919.html#Post115919
Cheers, Ted

]]> Wed, 20 Jul 2022 15:24:20 +0000 bigted https://www.outdoorking-forum.com.au/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/115919.html#Post115919 https://www.outdoorking-forum.com.au/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/112936.html#Post112936
I think the first test is mix a bit of the 2 in a jar and check they don't turn to sludge.

All going well, spray a small bit - if it hasn't become stressed in a few days, it should all be right. As always, wear chemical gloves, and other associated PPE

]]> Tue, 28 Sep 2021 17:15:08 +0000 Tyler https://www.outdoorking-forum.com.au/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/112936.html#Post112936 https://www.outdoorking-forum.com.au/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/112129.html#Post112129
Thanks

The imidacloprid is working - fortnightly application with a weekly application of Yates Pestoil (actually made by caltex apparently) at 30ml per L.

They got 3/4 of a bag of Neutrog Rooster Booster 2 weeks ago. Also did the Potash. Then last friday I did a light application of Cresco NPK (13 2 8).

I keep getting pressured to buy Black Marvel instead - but I reckon that stuff is complete overpriced BS (when I can't get an open bag at a decent price). Its supposedly NPK 12:2:10, with added Iron and Potash. I can do a folliar application of Chelated Iron and add some sulphate of potash to the Rooster Booster and it all still goes fine.



Only needing low maintenance dose of the Imidacloprid - using up a few old confidor sachets. Initially 2 sachets/5L, now 1 sachet in 5l sprayer - works out at 0.25g of pure imidacloprid per spray.

Which means I would get 800 5l fills out of the 1L bottle haha.

Have been using the Mavrik (Taufluvinate) on some Hibiscus which got aphids (worked). Will have to put some lime sulfur on the peach tree as its getting something up with it - can't remember what is wrong with it but the sulfur gets it.

Have been taking the precaution of cutting the unopened buds to prevent the bees getting them since after the first spraying there were a lot of wonky looking bees.

As you say - if we are responsible with it and take a few steps to avoid the bees, then it should be fine.

Picked up a bottle of Hovex Bifenthrin (though it says 500g/l of hydrocarbon liquid).
Slightly leaking seal at the top - marked down to $25 from $60.

Regards
Tyler

]]> Mon, 17 May 2021 13:56:28 +0000 Tyler https://www.outdoorking-forum.com.au/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/112129.html#Post112129 https://www.outdoorking-forum.com.au/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/112262.html#Post112262
The battle with my neighbour this time of year. Sure, I get a few sprouts here and there but this picture alone is why I bought the product.

Cheers,
TC.

]]> Thu, 10 Jun 2021 03:27:52 +0000 TheCount https://www.outdoorking-forum.com.au/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/112262.html#Post112262