<?xml version="1.0" encoding="utf-8"?>
<rss version="2.0" xmlns:atom="http://www.w3.org/2005/Atom" xmlns:dc="http://purl.org/dc/elements/1.1/">

	<channel>
		<title>Other Walk-Behind Rotary Mowers</title>
		<atom:link href="https://www.outdoorking-forum.com.au/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=myfeeds&amp;fp=0" rel="self" type="application/rss+xml" />
		<link>https://www.outdoorking-forum.com.au/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=cfrm</link>
		<description>Recent Topics</description>
		<language>en-us</language>
		<lastBuildDate>Fri, 22 May 2026 19:03:51 UTC</lastBuildDate>
		<ttl>5</ttl>
		<webMaster>support@outdoorking-forum.com.au (OutdoorKing Repair Forum)</webMaster>
		<generator>UBB.threads</generator>
		<image>
			<url>https://www.outdoorking-forum.com.au/forum/images/general/default/rss_icon.gif</url>
			<title>Other Walk-Behind Rotary Mowers</title>
			<link>https://www.outdoorking-forum.com.au/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=cfrm</link>
		</image>
		<item>
			<title>Rover Tampico history question</title>
			<link>https://www.outdoorking-forum.com.au/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/122368.html#Post122368</link>
			<description><![CDATA[Never had a Flymo as far as I can remember. I did come across a mower at the tip one time that must have mowed over some bailing twine which had wrapped around the bearing on the shaft so tight that it had actually cut into the seal and was preventing the motor from turning. I had to remove the seal and replace it to get rid of all the twine. Its amazing how tight that stuff can get when it wraps itself around a few dozen times. I've come across dead snakes and live frogs in cowels at times. I've had sticks jam up the blades underneath and they can be very difficult to pull out. It's not always something mechanical that stops a mower turning. You can be foiled by something as simple as a gum-nut. <br>And then the wheels fell off...  <img src="/forum/images/graemlins/default/sign0020.gif" alt="lol" title="lol" height="49" width="51"><br><br>]]></description>
			<pubDate>Thu, 14 May 2026 00:47:27 +0000</pubDate>
			<dc:creator>vint_mow</dc:creator>
			<guid>https://www.outdoorking-forum.com.au/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/122368.html#Post122368</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>The Elusive Masport - Masport Ambassador 21&quot; Self Drive Mower</title>
			<link>https://www.outdoorking-forum.com.au/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/121815.html#Post121815</link>
			<description><![CDATA[Hi jackeo21,<br><br>Below is a parts list for the mower.<br><br>]]></description>
			<pubDate>Mon, 29 Sep 2025 23:53:57 +0000</pubDate>
			<dc:creator>Bruce</dc:creator>
			<guid>https://www.outdoorking-forum.com.au/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/121815.html#Post121815</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>The Rover Pro-Cut Chronicles</title>
			<link>https://www.outdoorking-forum.com.au/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/121876.html#Post121876</link>
			<description><![CDATA[<span style="font-size: 17pt"><span style="font-weight: bold">Rover ProCut 560 – Spring Service</span></span><br><br>It’s now been a year since I found this beauty, and its been working hard!<br><br>When the Rover came to me, it was in remarkable condition for a 10-year-old mower. The previous owner had inherited the machine after his father passed away, both clearly kept it well maintained. Even still, I did a reset on it by changing the oil, plug and air filter. I also had to refresh some of the drive system parts, but overall, I had a near new ProCut 560 for half the price I paid for one new in 2015.<br><br>After a busy 2024/2025 spring/summer, in February this year I gave it an oil change and a set of new blades. I also replaced the useless fuel tap with a fuel filter. Now that the weather has warmed up and the grass is growing again, I want this mower in top condition for the season ahead. Look after your tools and they will look after you……………………..<br><br><a href="https://postimg.cc/21LkXrHq"  rel="nofollow" target="_blank"><img src="https://i.postimg.cc/W1Xdz4g7/IMG-7885.jpg" alt="[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]" class="post-image" style="height:auto!important;max-width:100%!important;"/></a><br><br><br><span style="font-weight: bold">Blades – </span><br><br>The current set of blades have been on the mower since February, and while they looked ok at a glance, I had been noticing a decline in cut quality. On closer inspection, they were well worth replacing. As per most Rover stuff now, finding OEM has become hard. I’ve noticed that when I’ve put the OEM Rover blades on the mower, they seem to last longer than the aftermarket stuff from GA Spares or Jak Max. Depending on where you get them, they will come pre-packaged or drawn from bulk lots of blades and hardware. The Rover branded ones come pre-packaged in sets of two. In this case, I’m using the Jak Max versions.<br><br><br><a href="https://postimg.cc/PCvXFT64"  rel="nofollow" target="_blank"><img src="https://i.postimg.cc/y8vDxNcw/IMG-7890.jpg" alt="[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]" class="post-image" style="height:auto!important;max-width:100%!important;"/></a><br><br><a href="https://postimg.cc/75JHQwBh"  rel="nofollow" target="_blank"><img src="https://i.postimg.cc/JzPs0hZN/IMG-7894.jpg" alt="[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]" class="post-image" style="height:auto!important;max-width:100%!important;"/></a><br><br><a href="https://postimg.cc/Jyw1fvgx"  rel="nofollow" target="_blank"><img src="https://i.postimg.cc/7Lhf2ynF/IMG-7896.jpg" alt="[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]" class="post-image" style="height:auto!important;max-width:100%!important;"/></a><br><br><a href="https://postimg.cc/tngydjZ3"  rel="nofollow" target="_blank"><img src="https://i.postimg.cc/QCQt3Njy/IMG-7911.jpg" alt="[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]" class="post-image" style="height:auto!important;max-width:100%!important;"/></a><br><br><br><span style="font-weight: bold">Deck – </span><br><br>While I had the blade carrier off, I took the opportunity to scrape off the accumulation of dirt and grass. Nothing special or glamorous here, just a paint scraper, wire brush………………….. and a giant mess afterwards.<br><br><br><a href="https://postimg.cc/N9BQMTQZ"  rel="nofollow" target="_blank"><img src="https://i.postimg.cc/QtWCfkwN/IMG-7899.jpg" alt="[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]" class="post-image" style="height:auto!important;max-width:100%!important;"/></a><br><br><br><span style="font-weight: bold">Oil Change – </span><br><br>Briggs normally specify SAE 30 oil, which I use in their older engines or for break-in. Otherwise, I’m using Penrite 10W-30 semi-synthetic. For the big block 850-series, you need 590 – 600ml of oil.<br><br>If Penrite is good enough for a Bathurst win last weekend, its good enough for my lawn mowers. …………………<br><br><a href="https://postimg.cc/vghb6BBH"  rel="nofollow" target="_blank"><img src="https://i.postimg.cc/PJsx9vnZ/IMG-7909.jpg" alt="[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]" class="post-image" style="height:auto!important;max-width:100%!important;"/></a><br><br>I normally drain or suck the oil out via the dipstick tube. On this occasion, with the blade carrier removed, I decided to remove the sump plug instead. I’ve actually never done it this way, in fact Briggs &amp; Stratton have removed the drain plug from their engines in recent years. Victa’s fitted with this engine are pressure lubricated via an oil pump, which is ran through an external oil filter. Those little filters are extremely expensive at $19.95 each, twice the price of some automotive filters. For the ProCut, Rover went for the basic splash lubrication, which saves me $20 per service.<br><br><a href="https://postimg.cc/YLSkNHGp"  rel="nofollow" target="_blank"><img src="https://i.postimg.cc/nr4zJVnQ/IMG-7904.jpg" alt="[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]" class="post-image" style="height:auto!important;max-width:100%!important;"/></a><br><br><span style="font-weight: bold">Cleaning – </span><br><br>With the oil change finished and the blade carrier reinstalled, I decided to give the unit a clean. Shine Supply Wise Guy was sprayed on, left to soak, then rinsed with the pressure washer. A little Hydr02 for the deck, and some Hyper Dressing for the plastics, I then used my blower to dry it off.<br><br><a href="https://postimg.cc/w77g79dK"  rel="nofollow" target="_blank"><img src="https://i.postimg.cc/tCzTvgSg/IMG-7914.jpg" alt="[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]" class="post-image" style="height:auto!important;max-width:100%!important;"/></a><br><br><br><span style="font-weight: bold">Spark Plug – </span><br><br>The plug was last changed 12-months ago when I got the mower. I could have just cleaned it, but I had them in stock so just went ahead with a new one. I went with the Champion RC12YC, but NGK BCPR5ES works as well.<br><br><a href="https://postimg.cc/jLLtLRYB"  rel="nofollow" target="_blank"><img src="https://i.postimg.cc/qMGRD7bB/IMG-7923.jpg" alt="[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]" class="post-image" style="height:auto!important;max-width:100%!important;"/></a><br><br><br><span style="font-weight: bold">Air Filter – </span><br><br>I’m actually a little disappointed in myself for not checking the filter sooner. I normally tap them out weekly, but for whatever reason I had let it go. No wonder the engine was running rich.<br><br>Briggs &amp; Stratton -<br><br>Early Models (Long-type) – 795066 (Filter) + 796254 (Pre-Filter)<br><br>Late Models (Triangle-type) – 595853 (Filter) + 597266 (Pre-Filter)<br><br><a href="https://postimg.cc/rzhqVK3G"  rel="nofollow" target="_blank"><img src="https://i.postimg.cc/7Y4hNzNR/IMG-7917.jpg" alt="[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]" class="post-image" style="height:auto!important;max-width:100%!important;"/></a><br><br><a href="https://postimg.cc/tYYpY9GD"  rel="nofollow" target="_blank"><img src="https://i.postimg.cc/xTPCpdxr/IMG-7919.jpg" alt="[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]" class="post-image" style="height:auto!important;max-width:100%!important;"/></a><br><br><br><span style="font-weight: bold">Fuel Filter – </span><br><br>With these, you need to make sure you have the correct one. The white 75-micron filters are for engines with a fuel pump, the red 75-micron ones are for gravity fed. The red ones are universal, but the white ones need a fuel pump to draw through the finer filtration material. These pancake filters use a metal screen, which is superior to the paper cartridge style filters that can sometimes break down and send filter material into the carburettor. Both are unidirectional for ease of installation.<br><br>Briggs &amp; Stratton – 298090S<br><br><br><span style="font-weight: bold">Service Cost – </span><br><br>Below is the parts cost to complete this service. If I add my labour rate to that, it would come out at about $177. So I saved about $90 - $100 by doing it myself.<br><br>Blade Kit - $39.95<br><br>Oil (590ml) - $7.45<br><br>Spark Plug - $8.95<br><br>Air Filters - $19.30<br><br>Fuel Filter - $9.95<br><br>Shop Supplies (Towels, Carb Spray) - $2.00<br><br>TOTAL - $87.60<br><br><a href="https://postimg.cc/QHws7vXX"  rel="nofollow" target="_blank"><img src="https://i.postimg.cc/T3YPzXFW/IMG-7927.jpg" alt="[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]" class="post-image" style="height:auto!important;max-width:100%!important;"/></a><br><br><br><span style="font-weight: bold">Ready for Work – </span><br><br>A quick test fire and the ProCut is ready for the peak mowing season.<br><br><a href="https://postimg.cc/3kGhF9Rn"  rel="nofollow" target="_blank"><img src="https://i.postimg.cc/9Q8fVnj5/IMG-7930.jpg" alt="[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]" class="post-image" style="height:auto!important;max-width:100%!important;"/></a><br><br><a href="https://postimg.cc/ygxNP186"  rel="nofollow" target="_blank"><img src="https://i.postimg.cc/1tcNy4xF/IMG-1569.jpg" alt="[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]" class="post-image" style="height:auto!important;max-width:100%!important;"/></a><br><br><br>This mower also represents the beginning of a massive change to my daily life. I went to pick this mower up on the first day of my long-service leave, and what a sigh of relief that was. In the two weeks leading up to leave, I had a very upsetting and uncalled for interaction at work. I held it together and forged on, so walking out on my last day and the little road trip to buy this mower was the beginning of a new life. Two weeks later, my new car arrived. A month later I landed in hospital, no doubt my body finally giving in, the recovery ate up a month of my leave. Another month on and I resigned, finally putting end to a long running and constant drain on my mental health.<br><br>So, every time I use this mower, I’m reminded of how it was the catalyst for change and the feeling of freedom.<br><br>]]></description>
			<pubDate>Sun, 19 Oct 2025 10:36:31 +0000</pubDate>
			<dc:creator>DFB</dc:creator>
			<guid>https://www.outdoorking-forum.com.au/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/121876.html#Post121876</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>1992 Rover Combat - A Suprise Packet!</title>
			<link>https://www.outdoorking-forum.com.au/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/120873.html#Post120873</link>
			<description><![CDATA[Mainly because of storage issues, not long after getting the Rover running again, I ended up loaning out this mower. It's role was to cut a particular lawn extremely short, think putting green type of thing. Being an Aussie designed and made mower, this was easily achieved using the Rover. However, about a month ago the Rover was returned to my care. <br><br>I had changed the oil on site back in September, but upon return I wanted to do some servicing........................and satisfy my curiosity. If you remember, my theory was this mower/engine hadn't done much work. So, I decided to pull the cylinder head and see for myself.<br><br><a href="https://postimg.cc/jC6Hb4Fq"  rel="nofollow" target="_blank"><img src="https://i.postimg.cc/jqmZy86f/IMG_3691.jpg" alt="[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]" class="post-image" style="height:auto!important;max-width:100%!important;"/></a><br><br>After removing the eight remarkably clean head bolts and the two smaller bolts holding recoil, I gently lifted the head away from the block. The piston was also remarkably clean, and while it looks bad in the photo's, the head wasn't too bad either. Compared to the oil-burning Sprint from a couple of months ago, this one looks quite reasonable. The intake valve was pretty crusty though.<br><br><a href="https://postimg.cc/2Vz48LsQ"  rel="nofollow" target="_blank"><img src="https://i.postimg.cc/jdfvczvF/IMG_3693.jpg" alt="[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]" class="post-image" style="height:auto!important;max-width:100%!important;"/></a><br><br><a href="https://postimg.cc/F7D0fsv2"  rel="nofollow" target="_blank"><img src="https://i.postimg.cc/3xH1cdcJ/IMG_3694.jpg" alt="[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]" class="post-image" style="height:auto!important;max-width:100%!important;"/></a><br><br>I then went about cleaning up the head, block and piston, removing any remaining gasket material in the process. I also sanded the head on the bench to level down any warping and create a level gasket surface. You would probably do that with the block as well, but I wasn't removing the engine or all the surrounding parts to make that possible. The valve faces were cleaned, and I did my best with the valve seats.<br><br><a href="https://postimg.cc/grbVQT4B"  rel="nofollow" target="_blank"><img src="https://i.postimg.cc/h4f2zFmg/IMG_3696.jpg" alt="[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]" class="post-image" style="height:auto!important;max-width:100%!important;"/></a><br><br><a href="https://postimg.cc/pyvjqnXw"  rel="nofollow" target="_blank"><img src="https://i.postimg.cc/wxykxXKj/IMG_3699.jpg" alt="[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]" class="post-image" style="height:auto!important;max-width:100%!important;"/></a><br><br>After cleaning the block and head with carb spray, it was then time for reassembly. For the head gasket, you need to be careful when ordering these. Despite these flat-head engines being largely unchanged over many decades, Briggs did change a lot of parts over the years, head gasket included. This is where your model-type-code number comes into the equation, which helps narrow down what parts your engine needs. For this vintage Quantum, I needed the 272200 or 272200S head gasket.<br><br><a href="https://postimg.cc/JDVXws3B"  rel="nofollow" target="_blank"><img src="https://i.postimg.cc/Kz4DMLRQ/IMG_3701.jpg" alt="[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]" class="post-image" style="height:auto!important;max-width:100%!important;"/></a><br><br>With the recoil cover still on the machine, it can be tricky getting the head levered up under the cover plate, then aligning the gasket and at least two head bolts with the block. Once located properly, I then fed in the rest of the bolts, getting them started by hand then seating them with the impact driver. Important to note that I didn't torque them down with the impact, I just ran them down till the first click and then followed with a torque wrench. I know there is probably an official torque sequence, but I just follow a cross pattern, the first round to 10 Nm, then followed by the suggested 16 Nm..............actually, I did them at 17 Nm.<br><br><a href="https://postimg.cc/VJhMRGdg"  rel="nofollow" target="_blank"><img src="https://i.postimg.cc/mrLwTK4v/IMG_3705.jpg" alt="[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]" class="post-image" style="height:auto!important;max-width:100%!important;"/></a><br><br>If you are looking for a good torque wrench, I can certainly vouch for these Wera items. This particular one is the A5 with 2.5 to 25 Nm capacity, and I also have the C4 with 60 to 300 Nm capacity. They have a lovely positive click-click action and the handles are super ergonomic. I also love the positive click for each increment up or down, and the clear indicator. Certainly not the cheapest, but also not the most expensive, especially if you buy them from Amazon. <br><br><a href="https://products.wera.de/en/torque_tools_series_click-torque_wrenches_click-torque_adjustable_torque_wrenches_with_reversible_ratchet_click-torque_a_5.html" title="httpsproductsweradeentorquetoolsseriesclicktorquewrenchesclicktorqueadjustabletorquewrencheswithreversibleratchetclicktorquea5html" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">https://products.wera.de/en/torque_...<wbr>reversible_ratchet_click-torque_a_5.html</a><br><a href="https://products.wera.de/en/torque_tools_series_click-torque_wrenches_click-torque_adjustable_torque_wrenches_with_reversible_ratchet_click-torque_c_4.html.html" title="httpsproductsweradeentorquetoolsseriesclicktorquewrenchesclicktorqueadjustabletorquewrencheswithreversibleratchetclicktorquec4htmlhtml" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">https://products.wera.de/en/torque_...<wbr>sible_ratchet_click-torque_c_4.html.html</a><br><br><a href="https://postimg.cc/hhf84TwJ"  rel="nofollow" target="_blank"><img src="https://i.postimg.cc/1RKvHKrK/IMG_8993.jpg" alt="[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]" class="post-image" style="height:auto!important;max-width:100%!important;"/></a><br><br><a href="https://postimg.cc/LgYjyFfk"  rel="nofollow" target="_blank"><img src="https://i.postimg.cc/wMFFj6jr/IMG_8995.jpg" alt="[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]" class="post-image" style="height:auto!important;max-width:100%!important;"/></a><br><br><a href="https://postimg.cc/1gNwGqfD"  rel="nofollow" target="_blank"><img src="https://i.postimg.cc/TPt0XjxN/IMG_2501.jpg" alt="[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]" class="post-image" style="height:auto!important;max-width:100%!important;"/></a><br><br><a href="https://postimg.cc/06k2kGVh"  rel="nofollow" target="_blank"><img src="https://i.postimg.cc/1z6gKJwR/IMG-8985.jpg" alt="[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]" class="post-image" style="height:auto!important;max-width:100%!important;"/></a><br><br>With the head back on, I turned to some more basic service items. Although probably unnecessary, I started by fitting a new spark plug.<br><br><a href="https://postimg.cc/bsC2yCHP"  rel="nofollow" target="_blank"><img src="https://i.postimg.cc/dVvR9ghh/IMG_3709.jpg" alt="[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]" class="post-image" style="height:auto!important;max-width:100%!important;"/></a><br><br>Next, the filters. Both the paper panel filter and foam pre-filter were dirtier than expected. I could have blown out and/or washed them, but I don't have the patience for that, so I just replaced them. The items that came out of the machine were aftermarket parts, the ones that went in are genuine Briggs.<br><br><a href="https://postimg.cc/G9324Ppm"  rel="nofollow" target="_blank"><img src="https://i.postimg.cc/RCKnbX5K/IMG_3711.jpg" alt="[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]" class="post-image" style="height:auto!important;max-width:100%!important;"/></a><br><br><a href="https://postimg.cc/CB7xv5c0"  rel="nofollow" target="_blank"><img src="https://i.postimg.cc/HnD8k75r/IMG_3713.jpg" alt="[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]" class="post-image" style="height:auto!important;max-width:100%!important;"/></a><br><br>It was then time to fire it up for a test run, which started on the first pull and settled into that sweet idle.<br><br><a href="https://postimg.cc/9rrQpWZ3"  rel="nofollow" target="_blank"><img src="https://i.postimg.cc/zXkHqvff/IMG_3715.jpg" alt="[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]" class="post-image" style="height:auto!important;max-width:100%!important;"/></a><br><br>I love these engines, they are so simple to work on and seem to run much nicer than the later versions with their fixed speed carburetors. That means they can actually idle and then have enough fuel for high rpm running. I also find people like to dismiss Briggs engines, and to a certain extent I can see where they are coming from. But with appropriate care and maintenance, they can certainly go the distance. <br><br>On this occasion, removing the head wasn't really needed. However, after seeing the condition of the piston and those head bolts, it sort of confirmed my suspicion that this engine hasn't done much work.<br><br>]]></description>
			<pubDate>Mon, 03 Feb 2025 10:17:32 +0000</pubDate>
			<dc:creator>DFB</dc:creator>
			<guid>https://www.outdoorking-forum.com.au/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/120873.html#Post120873</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Collect a Matic</title>
			<link>https://www.outdoorking-forum.com.au/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/119012.html#Post119012</link>
			<description><![CDATA[Hi Maurice,<br><br>Looks great, much better than an old second hand part.<br><br>Cheers<br>Max.<br><br>]]></description>
			<pubDate>Tue, 21 Nov 2023 08:11:09 +0000</pubDate>
			<dc:creator>maxwestern</dc:creator>
			<guid>https://www.outdoorking-forum.com.au/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/119012.html#Post119012</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Scott Bonnar Model 31</title>
			<link>https://www.outdoorking-forum.com.au/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/118848.html#Post118848</link>
			<description><![CDATA[Afternoon all,<br><br>Just picked this up…the fella I purchased it off said it was his grandfathers (deceased) which he purchased from new…it was passed onto his Uncle who is now in a home, but the mower never left the property as it was originally his Grandfather house and his Uncle moved in after his passing…<br><br>Anyway doing my research it is a Model 31, but the motor looks like it’s off a 35 (Round tank) but I have heard that SB did a lot of odd ball things in their time…just wondering if this could’ve been a late model or last of the run 31’s before they went to the 35…hence the updated motor.<br><br>Just smells original to me with the experience I have had with SB reel mowers<br><br>Cheers Guys<br><br>]]></description>
			<pubDate>Fri, 29 Sep 2023 07:24:24 +0000</pubDate>
			<dc:creator>Nos</dc:creator>
			<guid>https://www.outdoorking-forum.com.au/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/118848.html#Post118848</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Rover in the Rough</title>
			<link>https://www.outdoorking-forum.com.au/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/116834.html#Post116834</link>
			<description><![CDATA[Put E10 fuel in anything that is not used every few days and you are asking for trouble<br><br>]]></description>
			<pubDate>Sun, 27 Nov 2022 01:28:13 +0000</pubDate>
			<dc:creator>NormK</dc:creator>
			<guid>https://www.outdoorking-forum.com.au/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/116834.html#Post116834</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Scott Bonnar Spincut query</title>
			<link>https://www.outdoorking-forum.com.au/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/116472.html#Post116472</link>
			<description><![CDATA[Round disk drill 3 matching holes to the fanwheel 10mm hole in the centre, 10mm rod and a nut wakes a good puller<br><br>]]></description>
			<pubDate>Fri, 21 Oct 2022 03:37:22 +0000</pubDate>
			<dc:creator>NormK</dc:creator>
			<guid>https://www.outdoorking-forum.com.au/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/116472.html#Post116472</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Anyone know what this Pope sticker looked like?</title>
			<link>https://www.outdoorking-forum.com.au/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/115926.html#Post115926</link>
			<description><![CDATA[I wish I could write as neat as that Speedy! I might just get one of those generic labels printed &quot;Caution - 2 stroke fuel only!&quot; etc. and stick on there. I always fear that someone else might happen along some day and just put ordinary 4 stroke fuel in the tank. Be good to know what was on that original sticker on the fuel tank just the same.<br><br>]]></description>
			<pubDate>Fri, 22 Jul 2022 09:11:02 +0000</pubDate>
			<dc:creator>vint_mow</dc:creator>
			<guid>https://www.outdoorking-forum.com.au/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/115926.html#Post115926</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>How to fit early Pope steel hubcaps?</title>
			<link>https://www.outdoorking-forum.com.au/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/115908.html#Post115908</link>
			<description><![CDATA[Hi speedy and Max, I tried all of these and still could not get them to pop in. Just ended up with sore hands and a slippery, greasy mess. Using WD40 and a wooden hammer on fresh paint would not work too well. The tyres were N.O.S. which makes me wonder if they were rejects from the old days. One was in fact cut away a bit in order to make a cap fit at some time in the past. One of the drawbacks with getting NOS is you never know the history of the items. Got caught once with a brand new Tecumseh engine that had for some reason been left sitting on the shelf. I could never get it to go. There is often a reason why some parts were never used. Incidentally I had no trouble fitting them to four old used tyres that I have as spares. But they refuse to fit on to 3 of the new tyres. The only one I got to pop in was the new tyre that someone had taken a knife to in the past.<br>So I have resorted to using some slightly smaller diameter repro caps, 4 spots of glue on each and then sealed up with white silicon. That will have to do.<br><br>]]></description>
			<pubDate>Sun, 17 Jul 2022 23:32:46 +0000</pubDate>
			<dc:creator>vint_mow</dc:creator>
			<guid>https://www.outdoorking-forum.com.au/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/115908.html#Post115908</guid>
		</item>
	</channel>
</rss>
