I was distracted by that large black plastic cover on the front of the base, from noticing that the mower is unbranded. I simply imagined that there was proper Honda identification under that black plastic.
Are you saying the transmission does not have a proper lip seal on the pinion shaft? It can't work without that unless that is a sealed ballrace, or you follow Rob's suggestion and fit a grease nipple to an easily accessible part of the housing. Then you grease-pack it, and every time you service the mower, you give it a few pumps of grease so that it pushes grease out from the pinion shaft until it starts to come out clean,. That was a traditional way to make machinery long, long ago, but it is certainly not the Honda way.
There is a point I'd like to clear up. You said the pinion bearing is a 62201 RS. That is a bearing with a seal on one side, open on the other side. A sealed version would be 62201 2RS. A sealed version with metal side plates on both sides, would be 62201 ZZRS. However retailers don't always tell you the full code, accurately. I suggest you need to buy a sealed bearing, if possible with metal side plates, for that job.
If the side bearings of the drive are actually plain, not ballraces, Rob's suggestion seems like a good one when combined with a decent sealed pinion ballrace. That will get rid of any dirt that threatens to penetrate the housing through the axle shafts.
I'm disappointed that they have used a single-row ballrace for that pinion bearing. Single-row bearings should only be withstanding a radial load, not a bending load. For a small bending load, you need a double-row bearing. For a substantial bending load, you need two bearings some distance apart. That pinion bearing is subjected to a fairly small bending load, so it should be double row.
Last edited by grumpy; 19/01/1506:00 PM. Reason: Add detail
Hi Grumpy, Backed by the confidence of knowing I had a good forumn I could turn to for advice if I ran into trouble via yourself and also Rob who has also kindly offered to help I got stuck into this thing this afternoon and together we have had some great success in identifying the problem. (Grab a coffee this is going to take a while. The gearbox is similar to a HRB216 or HRB217. Looks like the HRC216 may have been correct after all and the actual gearbox for that model has been discontinued and not shown hence I couldn't see it in the diagram you pointed me to. (which I now think is the correct one or very close to it) http://www.planopower.com/store/honda/hrz216tda.php Pic of gearbox assembly in situ. Note belt in disengaged position.
Pic of gear assembly with the cover removed. Very little to it. Pulley connects directly to a (semi) worm gear that drives the main drive gear. Will be clearer in pics that follow.
Here it is removed from mower and simply separates once top cover is removed. Note worm gear and pulley shaft has a pressed in sealed bearing held in place by the visible circlip. Even in this disassembled state the pulley is stiff and difficult to rotate. Seriously suspecting this bearing is shot. Hoping its just a bearing an not some complicated minature clutch mechanism as it's difficult to tell while inside the casing.
Closer view of worm gear and bearing.
Shaft and bearing removed. I'm no expert but I think it's toasted. Rubber seal has been completely cooked.
Unfortunately it doesn't look like you can get individual parts for the gearbox but even if I need to buy a whole new gearbox assembly it will still turn out to be a cheap mower. But I will pull that bearing off tomorrow and get the vernier calipers out and measure it because I am pretty sure it will just be a standard size sealed bearing that I can pickup anywhere, or on ebay.
However after all that I am still missing one of the axle cogs and the a couple of wheel bushes/bearing which I may need to get from a Honda parts supplier. Any advice on the best place to order them from.
Thanks again for all your help.
That gearbox appears to be a Talon one I have attached a parts list so that you can compare.
Regards,
Bruce
Please do not PM me asking for support. Post on the forums as it helps all members not just the individual.
Hi JoBlo and Bruce, Did you'll ever figure out what brand/model that mower was? I just got a castaway mower that looks great. But the engine dies a couple of seconds after starting. Im guessing someone randomly tweaked the control box screws before giving up.
Looking for any help on getting the thing moving. The engine looks in great shape btw. No scratches or anything.
I have a mower that looks the same as the one on page 1 but mine says Shogun on the front ,I also have a Baumr AG mower that has the same base as the Honda powered Shogun so I'd say an Asian made base / mower.
Youtube is your friend just google how to clean a Honda gxv160 carby. Not sure if they tell you to remove the plate the plate that holds the throttle cable but it does make it easier
Hi NormK, So opened up the carburetor today and am thinking of replacing all the gaskets (they look shot to me). But not sure what to buy.
For starters there's this one between the air filter and the carb (has a metal piece in between).
Then there's (I think) a large heat shield between the carb and the engine. I dont think its supposed to be there.
There's another one behind that shield which kind of feels moulded on to the engine block (its not coming off easily). But there's a green bit behind it which tells me it might just be stuck on. I think I think I found that on EbayI found that on Ebay.
Found these 3 gaskets on Ebay for the GXV160 but that does not include the insulator 3 gaskets for GXV160
And lastly, there's this image from an age old manual that shows these parts, but I dont know how to find equivalents on Ebay.
And I was wondering if the GXV160 is the same as the GCV160, GX160 or the HRZ216 as far as carburetor gaskets are concerned?
I've attached the images for what I've described above.
Really appreciate any help or guidance. I've dived into a ton of manuals and sheets I could find for free online and
Hi Naz, No the GCV carby is not compatible with any of the other carbies. I find usually I can salvage the gaskets. I wouldn't putt too much effort into chasing gaskets till you can prove the carby will work. I havea50%failure rate with them even after I have put them through the ultrasonic cleaner. As long as you get the gaskets on the suction side of the carby set up ok and if one is a bit damaged a bit of silicone or gasket sealer will seal it up. At this stage I don't bother fitting the air filter housing because it is a pain in the arse to set it up and hold the gaskets and spacer in position. I use a couple of 10mm nuts on the bolts so I can run the motor and make sure the carby is going to work properly . Not easy, pig of a thing but that is what you have to work with. Just take it gently because they can be very frustrating first time around. Good luck
Hi again, Looks like it's time for a new carb. The bowl had quite a bit of gunk on the inside, the jets are all blocked and "look" rusty. And when I went to take out the part attached in the picture, it broke.
Naz, Get the GXV stuff out of your head, totally different motors, only similarity between them is made by Honda. You need to look for a GCV160 carby they have the 2 bolt holes horizontal. They are about $20 just scratch around and you will find them. Just make sure it has a choke, some of the Chondas use a primer bulb
Hi Norm, Naz was after the GXV160 carby, depth perception is harder to see in a photo (looking at some of the above ones), it's easy to order the right one from the images online.
Hi Naz, with the carb gaskets you have a few choices, I usually just cut my own from gasket paper but the side of a breakfast cereal box would also work or buy some online.
The only problem sometimes with buying a new carby is to make sure the throttle butterfly and choke butterfly open in the correct direction for your motor.
Just realized that Max, don't know where I got the idea he was talking about a GCV160, must be a seniors moment. Yes you have to be careful with the images online with the carbies that you get the one with the rod operated choke, not the lever type ones
Hi NormK, That worked! The mower starts now, (although its a real pain to hold the dead-mans lever, pull the throttle up to choke and then start it) and runs. Initially the engine kind of ran-away (kept accelerating), but it behaves now after I adjusted the governor bolt. Couple of new issues now:
1. How do I know if it's at the right rpm? Any app that will help me get the RPM. I tried one and it gave me 120Hz, which does not sound anywhere near right. 2. The transmission belt (self-propelling mechanism to engine shaft) has snapped quite badly (in a way that I cant get any length details off it). Any ideas on how to get a replacement? 3. Tried unscrewing the bolt on the engine shaft on which the blade holder is mounted, but didn't succeed. How can I hold the plate still while I unscrew the bolt? 4. And lastly, there's a plastic shroud that protects the belt thats held by two nuts, but the bolt heads seem to be on the other side and "might" require me to remove the engine. How do I get the shroud apart.
Hi Naz, Not easy to get the blade carrier off without a rattle gun, without you have to get a piece of timber in there somewhere to prevent it from turning. The belt covers can be a pain to get off but you must be able to get it off without removing the motor because you would never be able to reassemble it with the new belt fitted
Hi NormK and Maxwestern, Will be getting the belt delivered soon. Hopefully it all purrs at the end. One last issue. What grass catcher will be compatible with this model. Have attached a few pics.